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Construction in Thailand Is building in Thailand as bad as it seems? Can properties really be built and fitted out to European standards? Would you like to Build your own house in Phuket, or a swimming pool in Bangkok? Solar water heating in Pattaya? Or maybe you want to build a resort or guesthouse on Koh Samui? If you want to build a luxury house in Thailand then this is the forum for you.

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Old 06-09-2009, 08:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
Missismiggins
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in my book a 10.5 KW electric device would require 1 ph 220v 25 amp or 3ph 380v 16 amps.
10500/220 = 47.5 amps. One needs a 10 sqmm cable for that..
No such thing as a 10kw heater. Correct Power equals I X V. 10kw is like 5 two bar fires and unless you've have special cable fitted, like paralleled cooker cable then all that would happen is you would start a fire.
No such thing as Santa Claus too !
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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in my book a 10.5 KW electric device would require 1 ph 220v 25 amp or 3ph 380v 16 amps.
10500/220 = 47.5 amps. One needs a 10 sqmm cable for that..
No such thing as a 10kw heater. Correct Power equals I X V. 10kw is like 5 two bar fires and unless you've have special cable fitted, like paralleled cooker cable then all that would happen is you would start a fire.
No such thing as Santa Claus too !
3 phase. 415 volts across phase. Consumer supply. I don't think so.
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Old 05-09-2009, 11:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by woodenshoe
the light may be indicating power selection and not on/off...
Whatever sort of shower it is, I think this is the correct answer
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It's a direct flow heater - Panasonic 10XXX something - it is not really a shower as such, it is a "multi Point" water heater - and yes, you do not need 10KW for a shower - in fact it would probably cook me if I could bare to stay in the water on this setting.

The "heat" lights do not go off!, regardless of water flow - unless you slow the hot water flow to virtually a trickle, then the overheat cuts in. What I am trying to understand is - is it burning 10KW as long as the heaters are on?

For example - 100% hot water flow gives you for instance boiling water - using 10KW.

Then, I reduce the hot water flow by half - by switching the mixer tap to half hot and half cold (the flow rate doesn't change it's already at maximum) Where does the other half of the heat go? The machine still indicates that all three heaters are on - nothing switches off, so if it is still running at 10KW, with the same water flow, at half the temperature - where has the other 5KW gone? - or am I going mad? (I see no sign of a thermostat as this thing just gets hotter and hotter - the only thing that cuts it out is a severely reduced water flow)
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Missismiggins
is it burning 10KW as long as the heaters are on?
Probably, yes.

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I see no sign of a thermostat
I should have thought that there would be one somewhere but I am not that well versed in Panasonic water heaters.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you're using a mixer tap it's inserting cold water from your ordinary water supply into the heated water from your boiler. Your boiler is working at whatever wattage you set it at. It has no knowledge of the cold water that's being inserted into the water flow coming out of your shower/tap/brain
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like a bath heater rather than a shower heater.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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A lot of water heaters now have full electronic control of the water temperature.A device in the output water measures the temp.electronically,and sends a signal to an electronic current regulator to keep the water at the heat setting required.Forget all the names of the bits now:- its been a long time---
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Forget all the names of the bits now
Thyristor, triac
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thermo-couple !
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by crippen
Thermo-couple !
Well, yes that is the heat sensor.
It's output is fed into a regulator, the Triac.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have one of these water heaters. I wonder how it copes with spikes of lightning on the mains?
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Is this what you got ?

DH-10BM1T

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Old 06-09-2009, 08:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Is this what you got ?

DH-10BM1T

YES INDEED! they have modified the case a little since I bought mine. Plus the arseholes we had sorting out the house didn't help by painting it completely white with emulsion....it says on the side "Don't clean with thinners" how was I to know that the fuckwits we employed would paint a water heater...nothing ceases to amaze me....we had a bunch of fuckwits tile the bathroom, and I made a joke - see what they do with the border tiles (just a joke nothing more) I came back 6 hours later to find the fucking idiots had tiled all the border tiles in a 1 metre square...I took photos ...they didn't come out! A fucking five year old would have had more comprehension - then half of the fuckwits went home and wouldn't come back because the supports for my home are old trees and "possesed by ghosts" for fucks sake!

Can you imagine calling Dyno Rod and they all fuck off because they are scared of ghosts? The blokes were in their mid thirties for Christ's sake...I even had one try to wrap himself round a tree begging for mercy...he was pissed though, I'll give him that!

Last edited by Missismiggins : 06-09-2009 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thermo-couple
or a PT100 RTD ?
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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No understand. Google it Yes one of them!
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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At 10KW you theoretically draw 50% less current from the grid than at 5KW. At 5KW you theoretically need to mix less cold with the hot for a shower of the same time duration. Simple really, just turn the bloody thing down to minimum and inject less cold water through your mixer. The more current you draw from the grid, the larger your power bill. Current is the stuff that makes your power meter spin around and builds up numbers on that dial in your meter box. The power company reads the dial and calculates the bill from the amount of current that you have drawn since the last bill. You might see this expressed on your bill as KWh or Kilowatt hours. The less of these fellas the better for a small bill.

If you want to get a better understanding of what your appliances are using, The power equation P=IxV might help.

Now, P means power (measured in Watts)
I means current (measured in Amps)
V means voltage (measured in Volts)

So if theoretically you had a device which was said to produce 10KW or 10,000 Watts of power where the voltage was 220, you would have a power equation which would look like this: 10,000 = 45.45x220. You theoretically would be drawing a lot of current(45.45 Amps) and it would be very expensive.

Another example would be that of a 220V personal body massager. It may only produce power of .5 Watts. In this case the equation would be very different.
P=IxV = .5W=.003Ax220V. So you can see the personal body massager draws much less current than your hot water heater and consequently costs you heaps less.
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Johnny Longprong
At 10KW you theoretically draw 50% less current from the grid than at 5KW. At 5KW you theoretically need to mix less cold with the hot for a shower of the same time duration.
Make it the other way around and it will be correct.
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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At 10KW you theoretically draw 50% less current from the grid than at 5KW. At 5KW you theoretically need to mix less cold with the hot for a shower of the same time duration.
Make it the other way around and it will be correct.
Whoops. Too many vinos again. Hic!!
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:16 PM   #20 (permalink)
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At 10KW you theoretically draw 50% less current from the grid than at 5KW. At 5KW you theoretically need to mix less cold with the hot for a shower of the same time duration.
Make it the other way around and it will be correct.
Whoops. Too many vinos again. Hic!!
Power equals voltage times current. At 10kw you draw twice the current than 5kw. If you double the volts then you can halve the current but that's not possible. Inlet and outlet flow have no bearing. less water in will equate to less water out and visa versa as the water system is essentially a series system. Let less in or out will just mean hotter water. there will be no difference in electricity used.
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