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Construction in Thailand Is building in Thailand as bad as it seems? Can properties really be built and fitted out to European standards? Would you like to Build your own house in Phuket, or a swimming pool in Bangkok? Solar water heating in Pattaya? Or maybe you want to build a resort or guesthouse on Koh Samui? If you want to build a luxury house in Thailand then this is the forum for you.

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Old 17-03-2009, 10:46 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lom
The flow in this picture is from left to right and valve 2 is only for closing water supply to the house.
That is correct.
Well in that case, whoever installed the system needs his head examined - how would you do maintenance on the pump if you cannot isolate it from the mains?
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Old 17-03-2009, 10:49 AM   #27 (permalink)
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whoever installed the system needs his head examined
I can pretty well guarantee that there's nothing in this guy's head.
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Old 17-03-2009, 11:43 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Well jesus christ no wonder it is fucked up.
Maybe the meter is on the other side of the wall and there be a shut off out there at the meter.

With water in higher than water out seems like it is a good way to air lock the pump when it has a loss of water and then water back to the pump as the air will stay above the water, I had one like that once and everytime a little air got in the system it airlocked the pump.
Better to have water below and will force air out of the pump runner.

Last edited by blackgang : 17-03-2009 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 17-03-2009, 12:01 PM   #29 (permalink)
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^ I thought that too.
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Old 17-03-2009, 12:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Mine is in the ground for two reasons. One it keeps the water a lot cooler in the hot season. And two its buried underneath the sala, and is not unsightly and taking up a lot of room.
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Old 17-03-2009, 02:09 PM   #31 (permalink)
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one only hopes

and 3. we do not need to access it, ever
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Old 17-03-2009, 04:48 PM   #32 (permalink)
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4- use it only for service water and the warmer the better because it takes electricity to warm it for dishes and washing my ass.

and when I move from this house I can take it with me when I leave and 8k for a tank in not something I want to leave.
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Old 17-03-2009, 04:51 PM   #33 (permalink)
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5- attach to a Mickey Mouse pump.
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Old 17-03-2009, 04:54 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I got exactly the same pump as you.
If yours starts short cycling in a years time and you can't find the leak, call me.
Those fuckers have a common fault.
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Old 17-03-2009, 07:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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OK, I don't think it was a cheap pump tho, I went into Home Mart and told my friend, the owner to send out a tank, and I pointed outside to the one I have, and a good pump and someone to install it, and he did and I went in and the bill for the stuff was a tad over 7k for the tank and 13k total, so a tad over 5k for the pump.
The guy charged me 500 for the labor and pipe and fittings and delivery and running the wire for electrical service out to the pump.
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Old 17-03-2009, 07:17 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Looks like an Hitachi in which case it is a very good pump.
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Old 18-03-2009, 08:07 AM   #37 (permalink)
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yeah, but the round ones are much better
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Old 18-03-2009, 09:05 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I had a round one at my house in Nangua and it didn't last for shit.
It was an orange color.
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Old 18-03-2009, 10:22 AM   #39 (permalink)
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well, you should have chosen the white one

and I bet it wasn't an Hitachi
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Old 18-03-2009, 10:28 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I feel your pain Marmite.
I have one pump, one tank, and one filter.

Between the main (meter) and my house there are about two dozen valves, About 10 on the filter alone.
Fucked if I know what any of them do.
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Old 18-03-2009, 12:24 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
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but the round ones are much better
Yes they are better and work on a slightly different principle which makes for a smoother supply
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Old 20-03-2009, 10:55 AM   #42 (permalink)
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OK, I had a brief bit of success in stopping the on/off problem by cranking up the pressure from the pump, but I think as someone stated there is a bit of air trapped in it somehwere.

I assume one of those 2 large plastic screws will let me get the air out of the system, but I don't want to meddle with it unless I fuck it up completely. If anyone knows what the correct procedure is, I'd appreciate you telling me.

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Old 20-03-2009, 11:07 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Man note the dodgy wiring on that motherfucker!
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Old 20-03-2009, 11:17 AM   #44 (permalink)
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usually the air in the water reciever tank is to stop water hammer when the pump starts and smooth out the flow, but it seems as if the water enters the top of the tank in your pump so there will be no air in it, so maybe loosen the left plug and see if air or water comes out as you loosen it, if you get water then there is no air in it. but be sure to replace the cover of the pressure switch as you do not want water in there. those switches do not last to long but are cheap and easy to replace and come in different start/stop pressures.
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Old 20-03-2009, 11:28 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marmite the Dog
I assume one of those 2 large plastic screws will let me get the air out of the system, but I don't want to meddle with it unless I fuck it up completely. If anyone knows what the correct procedure is, I'd appreciate you telling me.
The most common problem with these pumps is not air in the pump - there should be air in it since that is how it regulates the pressure.
You shall have an air pocket in the tank and if it becomes smaller then you will get the symptoms you described.

You shouldn't have to open those big plastic screws, the correct procedure if memory serves me (this is how I always do it anyway) is to close the water intake and open the water outlet (there is one on the wall side but looks like it will be hard to access) to drain the pump completely from water.
When drained, close the outlet, open the inlet and start the pump.
This should automagically build up the correct air pocket inside.
It will take a few minutes during which the pump will make strange clicking sounds
but that is normal.
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Old 20-03-2009, 11:47 AM   #46 (permalink)
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In addition to explain the functionality:

The pressure sensor in the top of the tank actually measures the pressure in the air pocket which is proportional to the pressure of water in the tank.
The air pocket will get compressed when the pump fills the tank with water and will decompress when you use water.

It is usually not helpful to adjust the screw in the pressure sensor - you can get higher pressure but the pump will also start earlier when pressure sinks.
It is better to replace the pressure sensor with a higher rated one.
The pressure sensor is the round thingy to the right in the picture where the cables
are conneced.
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Old 20-03-2009, 01:29 PM   #47 (permalink)
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We have to suck the water through 4 meters of pipe to get it going just to have a shower.
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Old 20-03-2009, 01:38 PM   #48 (permalink)
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^ And your problem is?
You get tired of sucking?
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Old 20-03-2009, 01:40 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lom
The pressure sensor is the round thingy to the right in the picture where the cables are conneced.
That's the only bit I know, as I have fiddled with it already.



Quote:
Originally Posted by lom
is to close the water intake
OK, I can do that at the meter.
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Old 20-03-2009, 06:09 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I concur with Lom
He understands how the pump works.
The motor does not directly pump water into the house.
It is the compressed air which does it.

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the tank
I always use that to empty the tank
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