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| Construction in Thailand Is building in Thailand as bad as it seems? Can properties really be built and fitted out to European standards? Would you like to Build your own house in Phuket, or a swimming pool in Bangkok? Solar water heating in Pattaya? Or maybe you want to build a resort or guesthouse on Koh Samui? If you want to build a luxury house in Thailand then this is the forum for you. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Hua Hin Last Online: 14-11-2009 01:12 AM Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: UK and Isaan
Posts: 15
| I have a trap door access to the attic which is based on a wooden frame secured to adjacent internal brick walls. I'm assuming that your ceiling, like mine, is made with plaster board (gypsum) sheets secured to an aluminium frame and skimmed over. In my case the aluminium strips are secured at each end to the brick walls and also supported by vertical wires fixed to the roof beams. My take on this is that it isn't a good idea to cut any of the aluminium strips without a good idea of how you are going to join adjacent strips, cut ends etc to get a strong frame around the cut-out trap. I don't think putting some 'L' shaped aluminium mouldings around the hole with glue is really the way to go. Perhaps something could be sorted out by pop-riveting in some additional cross members between the existing strips and trying to enlarge the hole in such a way that the new edges align with existing strips on two sides. My own preference though would be to try to put in some additional wooden or steel beams to support a strong frame for the cut-out. |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Suspended Member Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16,901
| Quote:
1) they are difficult to find 2) they don't come for small jobs Thanks | |
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Suspended Member Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16,901
| Quote:
I don't mind doing it, I learn something new and it can be fun. I just don't want to destroy everything, that's my main concern. Last week, I fixed a small leak in my roof. It took my neighbour 3 monkeys over 2 week-end to fix that same small leak (cracked in our common wall). They are fucking hopeless. | |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Oh Fuk | OK so, to make it larger you only have to change two sides, and lengthen the other two as was said, make sure there are no wires or pipes leave the side nearest the wall as is, just make it longer. Cut you hole to the size you want. If you are using a premade hole and door, that is what you have to work to, if not, any size around 50x30cm would be Ok, 50x40cm better you now have your hole. Any supports that you have cut (don't worry, the other supports will take the weight for the short term) should be bridged so that the weight around the hole is then on the adjacent supports. You can do this with bits of aluminium, as suggested, or even wood. Using the latter, you can put them in place using Construction adhesive ("It is not nails", "Just like nails", "Sticks like shit" etc). Small screws or clamps can be used until the adhesive sets (24/48 hrs) now you have a supported hole. You can make a trapdoor to fit, but remember that with that type of ceiling you cannot use a leaning ladder to access the space (as was pointed out) as the panels are not robust enough.
__________________ keep 'em coming |
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| Suspended Member Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16,901
| Quote:
I am a fat bastard, I hope I can make it to 60x40 or 60x30, should the longer side be near the wall ? that might be my only option. | |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Suspended Member Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16,901
| ^ I might, especially for the section around the edge to make the trap close, this is by far the most complex part. Will probably need to take pics for the roof leak once I climbed the service trap as I have no idea how to fix that one. Could be a tile that moved, or something else. That one is going to be a big project. New thread. |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Suspended Member Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16,901
| Ok, things are not going too well first, drawing a large rectangle on a ceiling is harder than I expected, my neck hurts, and it looks kind of straight but drawing a right angle upside down is quite challenging second, I have a Jigsaw, some Chinese one from Tesco, it looks ok so I hope it will perform well. But how do you cut through the ceiling with those ? I first tried to cut the ceiling with a cutter, but that didn't make it, ceiling too strong (5cm plaster), and the Jigsaw won't cut through for the first cut. What should I do ? |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Koh Samui Last Online: 20-11-2009 07:31 AM Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Ban Chang
Posts: 50
| Drill a series of holes at the start of each cut line to insert the blade. When you get to the end of the cut line stop just short of meeting the next series of start holes. Only need to leave a couple of millimeters. These will keep the cut out tacked in place at the corners instead of coming down on your head. When you have done all four cuts place one hand in the center of the cut out and with the palm of your other hand give each corner a good knock and the corners will break away easily. There is no way the ceiling is 5 cm (50 millimeters) thick, maximun would be 1.2 cm. Also when working upside down try not to stand on your head it can cause you to fall though your arse. |
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