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  1. #1
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    Best way to seal PVC in cement water tank.

    What the best way to seal PVC in a cement water tank? For drain pipe and water supply . Using those those prefabricated type of cement drainage pipe, a meter in diameter, to make the water tank.

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    I do not like the cement tiles or even the Thai water jars that are made of cement if used for shower and household water because of lime leaching out of them for years, and makes the water so hard that females when visiting say that that water is so hard that it is a thrill to douch with it,
    So the PVC can be sealed into it if it is plastered inside after being set up with Ferro cement, and you will have better water quality if you are using Rain water.
    or you can seal them in with an epoxy counpound,

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    On a walkabout Loy Toy's Avatar
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    I would consider (PP) Polyprolene extruded high pressure rated plastic pipes instead of PVC from the start and consult the person you purchased the pipes from regarding how best to fit them.

    Virtually no adour contamination (PVC pipes produce a horrible residue) and high resiliance against the cement acids.

    Again speak to someone at Homepro, Homemart and or better still the pipe manufacturer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackgang View Post
    I do not like the cement tiles or even the Thai water jars that are made of cement if used for shower and household water because of lime leaching out of them for years, and makes the water so hard that females when visiting say that that water is so hard that it is a thrill to douch with it,
    So the PVC can be sealed into it if it is plastered inside after being set up with Ferro cement, and you will have better water quality if you are using Rain water.
    or you can seal them in with an epoxy counpound,
    I did some testing with ferro-cement. Using some chicken fencing wire around the PVC, then pressing the cement (sharp) through it, but it still gets some seepage. I was thinking of using some caulk around the pipe, or liquid gasket maker, then using the ferro-cement technique, after the previous dries for 24 hours. Just want to see what others did. The water not for personal use, but still dont want to use something toxic, etc.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loy Toy View Post
    I would consider (PP) Polyprolene extruded high pressure rated plastic pipes instead of PVC from the start and consult the person you purchased the pipes from regarding how best to fit them.

    Virtually no adour contamination (PVC pipes produce a horrible residue) and high resiliance against the cement acids.

    Again speak to someone at Homepro, Homemart and or better still the pipe manufacturer.
    Cement acids can be leeched out in a couple of weeks. They can also be neutralized with acid. Dalton I believe neutralized his tanks using banana leaves.I'm sure the type of pipe your talking about would probably work well, but I want more common stuff. Either way it will have to be cemented in. I do appreciate your input though. Thanks.

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    We had no well at our home and what they had been using before I came on the scene was a 2"PVC jetted with water 4 meters deep and surrounded by cess pits,
    So with the roof area we would have counting both house roof and the 4 meters wide roof over the full side and back of the house we had enough area to recover 200 or 300 gallons an hour during moderate rain fall, so I scouted around and outfit that if I remember was NGO, but would come and make on site Ferro tanks about 2 meters wide and 4 deep,, swell for my use but I would only need 3 and they would only come if they built 5,, so I bought 21 1400 liter Thai water jars, never giving a thought that they might use hi lime cheap cement, They were Thai Water Jars FFS.,, the first year they got a scum on top of the water that was like egg shells 1/2 inch thick, and so for the first 2 years we would transfer water from one string of jars, clean them, well and then transfer the water back and clean the other string,, so they would be full the first few days of rain and then all the rest of monsoon the water would enter the jars from the bottom and overflow., and after 7 or 8 years we still have them and the water is still quite hard after the rains stop, but beats hell out of recirculating cess pit water thru the shower.

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    Sorry to hear that blackgang, sounds like a mess. We built a cistern 2.5M deep and about 3x5M in diameter about 6 years ago out of poured cement, and never had a problem with it. The water is hard, but it comes that way from the well. We used to put magnesium in the filter to soften it, but stopped after a couple of times. Too expansive and it don't last long. We now just filter with charcoal and backwash when I think about it.

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    It is fine, I just prefer soft water, ya see I had a cabin at 3500 feet in the rockies in Northern Idaho and the creek that ran 10 feet from my back deck, well that was the front of the house but the driveway was in back and thats the door we used to go and come, front was just for setting and looking up and down stream and thats the water that we drank and used for everything, setting there in the evening, get up walk down a couple meters and was a glass mug hanging on a limb of a tree, get a glass of water from the creek and so cold it make your teeth hurt. Glacier and snow melt and pure as distilled only taste better, had a little gas homelite pump and used it to fill a 300 gallon tank in the attic of the mudroom, in winter just chop a hole in the ice ever so often and pump up to the tank, be damn sure to drain the pipe tho or be no more water thru it til may or June.

  9. #9
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    Why not use epoxy between ? it will seal any leach and will not make the pvc brake if you use a water pump and get some movement in it... its just a thought from me.. and by the way mellow :P why you use the photo i wanted to use now i have too find another profile photo :P

  10. #10
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    when you insert the pipe into your perfectly made hole, seal it both sides with silicon (bathroom stuff)

    after a day, you can the cement the pipe inside and out

    that should stop the leaks, even at the pressure at the bottom of the tank

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    When I ordered the tanks made I had a 1" pvc pipe coupling put in each side of the jars an inch off the bottom and then set up with the couplings facing each other then glue in a stub of 1" pipe of correct length and hooked together with those plastic pipe unions made to hook pipe ends together, works good still today and made first flush valves and strange looking shit but we have harvested all our water from rain off of our roofs except for that one year.


  12. #12
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    Epoxy is an idea, but silicone is easy to work with. As far as a perfectly made hole in cement, that might be hard to come by though. hell of a set up there blackgang, at first glance I thought you had a fish farm.

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    in the lower left corner you can see a Jar top and the gate post, and this is where we raised the fish til the 3 years of no rain and lost most of the stock, not that they died but was eaten as they lost their water habitat and father died so we just nerer got to interested again til this year Bro in Law has bought some new stock,Covers 7 Rai and about 2.5 met deep


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mellow View Post
    As far as a perfectly made hole in cement, that might be hard to come by though. .

    I was joking, honest

  15. #15
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    Beautiful pond Blackgang. I'm glad that I didn't start that next thread yet DrAndy, it was suppose to be titled "How Do You Make A Perfect Hole In Concrete?".

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