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  1. #1
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    What pump do I need.

    What sort of water pump do I need for a smallish house with Kitchen, 1 toilet and 1 shower?

    The house is on 2.4m stilts.

    I am assuming I only need a small household pump that would cost around 9,000 baht (I have no idea).

    Do I just sit it on the concrete floor downstairs or do I bolt it to the floor? Onga? Davey? Any other brand?

    Cheers
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    Mea-Culpa
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    ^ Do you have public water or your own well ??

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    Public water.

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    ^Are you going to have a tank as well?

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    I was going to but only because I thought I needed one. After talking with my Dad I don't think I really need it as the water supply is quite reliable.

    Do I need one?

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    As far as a pump goes, you just need a small centrifical with a pressure control switch, maybe 1 1/2 in and 1" outlet, be sure that the outlet is so that it can not airlock the pump and burn it up.
    Make sure on the pump that the outlet is above the impeller and has enough space for the air that gets into the pump can clear the pump, so it is a good thing to have a piece of 4" pipe about 4 feet long to use as an airbell and that will give a place for air to go and also take the surge out of the water and stop the pump from short cycling.

  7. #7
    Thailand Expat Texpat's Avatar
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    I've been pricing pumps lately and a standard Mitsubishi or Hitachi household pump is more like 5-6K baht.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MeMock
    Public water.
    There should normally be pressure enough in that system, but if not then you need a Mitsubishi automatic pump with a 3/4" or 1" connection, that's more than enough for your need, and as Tex says they are about 5 to 6K but they are the best, dont go for the china stuff.
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  9. #9
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    You mentioned Davey pumps.
    The pumps themselves are great but the importer here are Grimm Bros and they are wankers. I had a bit of a barney with them over my XP500 pump and ended up complaining to their HQ in OZ. The service from OZ was superb and Grimms have now been given the big E. Bottom line is if you want a Davey then expect to deal with OZ if you want any service.

    I think you should be looking for a 250w pump.
    Personally I would go for any make that appears good value as I don't think a Mitsubishi lasts any longer than a cheaper make.

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    Better to install the pump at house level in this case since you have city water.. The reasoning is that the pump will assist with pulling the water up to the house level and then it will provide you with better more consistent pressure in your house being closer to the pumping source with less pressure drop off over a shorter distance, this is a common mistake made here..

    Just install a check valve aka 'foot valve' as they're known here, at the lowest point on the influent line (fresh water) to the pump to prevent the water from draining back down hill for what ever reason and causing the pump to lose it's prime..Step up in size on the foot valve from the original piping size to accommodate as much flow to the pump as possible, I.E. if your piping is 3/4 install a 1" check valve with 3/4" to 1" pipe reducers to reduce the amount of restriction on the water flow and maintain at minimum the same size ID of the system..

    I would recommend at minimum 1 1/4" influent side (suction) and same to no lower than 1" effluent (pressure) side to maximize your house pressure that feeds the pump with adequate source water while pressurizing down to your house piping which is most likely 3/4"..
    Silent but deadly.....

  11. #11
    Thailand Expat Texpat's Avatar
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    (Apologies for using your thread MM, I have a similar Q)

    I have city water coming into a tank. I plan on attaching a filter and then a pump to push water into my house.

    Are there pumps where you can adjust the pressure or is that merely determined by the size of the pump? What is a good size pump for a 2 story house with 3 bathrooms?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driventowin
    Better to install the pump at house level in this case since you have city water..
    I will have to disagree with that.
    It takes a lot less power to push water than it does to lift it, you can only lift water 27 feet at sea level, but can push it for a lot of feet straight up.
    If the city water is cut down in flow at heavy times of use you are working your pump a lot harder at 20 elevation than at ground level and have a lot more chance of sucking air into the lines if you are putting a lot of vacuum on the lines.
    Therefore the reason that submersible pumps do such a fine job and are used on deep well systems.
    Always have your pump as close as possible to your water source.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackgang View Post
    As far as a pump goes, you just need a small centrifical with a pressure control switch, maybe 1 1/2 in and 1" outlet, be sure that the outlet is so that it can not airlock the pump and burn it up.
    Make sure on the pump that the outlet is above the impeller and has enough space for the air that gets into the pump can clear the pump, so it is a good thing to have a piece of 4" pipe about 4 feet long to use as an airbell and that will give a place for air to go and also take the surge out of the water and stop the pump from short cycling.
    Crikey BG, I knew I was stupid when it came to this sort of thing but you have made me feel like a total retard!

  14. #14
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texpat
    Are there pumps where you can adjust the pressure or is that merely determined by the size of the pump? What is a good size pump for a 2 story house with 3 bathrooms?
    Most of the pumps sold in LOS have an adjustable pressure switch.
    250w should be enough flow and pressure for three bathrooms.
    I paid 4000 baht for mine.
    Last edited by Thetyim; 30-01-2008 at 04:15 PM. Reason: I got the watt figure wrong

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texpat View Post
    I've been pricing pumps lately and a standard Mitsubishi or Hitachi household pump is more like 5-6K baht.
    Thats good info, thanks for that.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texpat
    I have city water coming into a tank. I plan on attaching a filter and then a pump to push water into my house.
    Most pumps here are of the pressure cutout type and the cutout switches do come with different cutout pressures, but not that much difference in then anyway, and I would put the filter on the discharge side of the pump, and maybe a suction strainer if you have trouble with leaves and trash coming into your system, but with commercial water coming in I don't think you need to worry about that.
    One of the pumps that Thetyim mentioned is a good one to use here.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thetyim View Post
    You mentioned Davey pumps.
    The pumps themselves are great but the importer here are Grimm Bros and they are wankers. I had a bit of a barney with them over my XP500 pump and ended up complaining to their HQ in OZ. The service from OZ was superb and Grimms have now been given the big E. Bottom line is if you want a Davey then expect to deal with OZ if you want any service.

    I think you should be looking for a 250w pump.
    Personally I would go for any make that appears good value as I don't think a Mitsubishi lasts any longer than a cheaper make.
    Thanks Thetyim.

    I never realised Davey was an Australian brand.

    Think I might avoid them in Thailand though considering what you went through.

    250w, any brand you reckon? I will keep that in mind.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driventowin View Post
    Better to install the pump at house level in this case since you have city water.. The reasoning is that the pump will assist with pulling the water up to the house level and then it will provide you with better more consistent pressure in your house being closer to the pumping source with less pressure drop off over a shorter distance, this is a common mistake made here..

    Just install a check valve aka 'foot valve' as they're known here, at the lowest point on the influent line (fresh water) to the pump to prevent the water from draining back down hill for what ever reason and causing the pump to lose it's prime..Step up in size on the foot valve from the original piping size to accommodate as much flow to the pump as possible, I.E. if your piping is 3/4 install a 1" check valve with 3/4" to 1" pipe reducers to reduce the amount of restriction on the water flow and maintain at minimum the same size ID of the system..

    I would recommend at minimum 1 1/4" influent side (suction) and same to no lower than 1" effluent (pressure) side to maximize your house pressure that feeds the pump with adequate source water while pressurizing down to your house piping which is most likely 3/4"..
    Okay, most of this is gobbledegood but the one thing I have got out of it is installing it at house level. You obviously mean at 2.4m in height right?

    You said city water? When I mean by public water I mean a remote village that relies on one of those small water towers you see everywhere.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thetyim View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Texpat
    Are there pumps where you can adjust the pressure or is that merely determined by the size of the pump? What is a good size pump for a 2 story house with 3 bathrooms?
    Most of the pumps sold in LOS have an adjustable pressure switch.
    350w should be enough flow and pressure for three bathrooms.
    I paid 4000 baht for mine.
    It keeps on getting cheaper and cheaper!

    What brand was your 350w/4000 baht model?

  20. #20
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    I had decided to not have a tank but have sinced changed my mind.

    What sized tank would I need to you think to have enough water if the supply was cut for say 3 days?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeMock
    Crikey BG, I knew I was stupid when it came to this sort of thing but you have made me feel like a total retard!
    It is no big deal really about pumps and water systems, but some people know nothing and some are fairly well schooled on most stuff, but it is hard to answer a question when you do not know how much the person knows.
    I have worked on them on boats, dredges are only about pumps because thats what makes em work, I have been involved with large irrigation companys where each circle and well pump move at least 3000 gallons of water a minute or they will not operate.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeMock
    What sized tank would I need to you think to have enough water if the supply was cut for say 3 days?
    Good idea, but as to tank size would depend on what your family use a day, we use 50 Gallons a day and my water tankage is set up to last 6 months at that usage, but we collect rain watetr and have no well.
    So figure what you use, what you will require and then buy the tank, a Thai water jar is normally 1400 liters capacity, I have 21 of those in my system.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackgang View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Driventowin
    Better to install the pump at house level in this case since you have city water..
    I will have to disagree with that.
    It takes a lot less power to push water than it does to lift it, you can only lift water 27 feet at sea level, but can push it for a lot of feet straight up.
    If the city water is cut down in flow at heavy times of use you are working your pump a lot harder at 20 elevation than at ground level and have a lot more chance of sucking air into the lines if you are putting a lot of vacuum on the lines.
    Therefore the reason that submersible pumps do such a fine job and are used on deep well systems.
    Always have your pump as close as possible to your water source.
    But BG he has public water already to push it up that's why I suggested it.. Now.....I am not going to qualify my more than 20 years of experience in cock fighting arguments like happened on the other thread though very little was with you. I gave my advice it's up to him to take it or leave it..Makes no never mind to me..I'd rather just bow out if that's going to be the case..

    Submersible pumps and ground well pumps as these are, are completely different animals and due to their internal design have different pumping and pumping characteristics so no comparison is accurate..

    I have more to say but I'll leave it at that..

    Ok Memock my terminology is off in terms of "city water", but you are currently getting it in your house now right? So it is already working just not up to max capacity but in any case the pump can/will pull from that height as they are designed to pull primarily from wells at much greater depths. If the system is installed properly there should be no issues with air intrusion causing prime loss as has been mentioned and that is also the primary purpose of the check valve..

    Sorry if it seems to be gobbledegook but it is answering your question in the simpliest most direct terms I can use..

    And yes I was suggesting at what ever height your building your house, 2.4m as you said..
    Last edited by Driventowin; 30-01-2008 at 04:30 PM.

  24. #24
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeMock
    What brand was your 350w/4000 baht model?
    Whoops I got the watts wrong, sorry it is 250w and it is an LG product.
    The air bell was too small for my liking so I added a larger one.

    Most of these pumps fail because the bottom tank rusts away.
    The motors and impellers don't usually fail early.
    This is why I think it is better to buy a cheap one and then replace the bottom tank with a stainless steel one after a few years.

  25. #25
    Have you got any cheese Thetyim's Avatar
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    One more thing, make sure you put some rubber under the pump feet.
    I usually just cut up an old pair of flipflops but being a flash bugger you may prefer to splash out 29 baht on a new pair.
    This will cut down on the noise it makes.

    I don't bother to screw the pump down but this may not be correct.
    I will let BG and DTW answer that one.

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