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  1. #1
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    Paint for old style wood wall

    My ongoing house built have some old wood walls made from some old woodflooring that i did not use for flooring becouse it was to thin for flooring. I found some ideas online for old style wood wall design but im not shure if i should use some paint or not, and if so what to use..i want to keep the old wood look..

    Wall Idea Sample:

  2. #2
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    First thing is to consider when dealing with wood finish is to know what type of wood your floorboards are made from, also if the boards are re-milled, or have their original patina, holes where they were previously nailed/screwed down, plus any other signs of distress or splitting.

    The darkness of the wood will also dictate which direction you could take when considering the finish.

    Perhaps you could upload a photo?

  3. #3
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    You can use NC lacquer - fast drying - a matt provision, if you do not want it much glancing, similar as shown below on acacia tables. That will also prevent against moisture from humid air around and keep insect away. There are also various oil based paints, however not so fast drying.

    Important is a treatment of the invisible surfaces, they are prone to termites. The termites always come for the side where it touches concrete walls. A protective paint Chaindrite is in Thailand available.






  4. #4
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    I use Beger Wood Stain. Comes in gloss, semi-gloss and flat and many wood colors including clear. I used it for floors, walls and furniture. Thin it out by 25 % and sand between coats.

  5. #5
    Days Work Done! Norton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Humbert
    I use Beger Wood Stain. Comes in gloss, semi-gloss and flat and many wood colors including clear. I used it for floors, walls and furniture. Thin it out by 25 % and sand between coats
    Did same except TOA rather than Beger.

  6. #6
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    Woodstain is one way to go for sure, and darker stains will hide most imperfections, although a whole wall of dark might be a bit much. Even just cleaning up and varnishing with clear on already dark wood might be too heavy looking.

    If the wooden floorboards are in their original (used state) an alternative perhaps might be to use the imperfections in the wood as details, sanding back the visible side in layers until wood surface is exposed enough to accept a stain (leaving imperfections alone, no need to make baby smooth) and lighten the whole thing to give a more holiday beach hut feel , using some washes of thinned white/very light colour shade. Brushing along the wood grain, letting the coats dry off before adding another layer if needs be.

    Give a final coat over dry lighter undercoats with a very thin wash of charcoal grey/brown, followed by wiping off excess leaving darker tones in crevices, cracks and holes etc. to add interest. Again this can be done more than once of necessary.

    Seal the whole thing with a semi-gloss varnish.

    Obviously it might take a few tests with different colours and strengths to get the desired effect, but as you'd be doing each board separately, some differences (whether planned or accidental) would only add to the overall effect.

    I'm not sure about availability in Thailand, as I haven't needed to look here yet, but all these washes and varnish effect can be achieved using water-soluble versions if the wood isn't too oily. That said, although horrible ingredients, white spirit, a retardant additive, coloured oil-based paints and varnish will achieve a better result in the end.

    Alternatively, if the old wood is an oily hard wood such as Teak or Mai Daeng, and is for internal use only, it could be given an antique look:

    There are some petroleum-based staining waxes available here, unfortunately not Briwax as far as I know.

    Give the visible side a light fine grit sanding, wipe down with methylated spirits, then add stain. As Klondyke mentioned, you should Chaindrite the non-visible wood especially if it's near to any concrete, although I think Teak/Mai Daeng would be fine without.

    Once the wood is dry, brush-apply staining wax to the visible side only, adding more wax to fill holes and cracks, then buff when dry using 0000 wirewool, final polish can be done with cloth, or for a deeper shine, mopped afterwards with a powertool once the wall is up. Giving extra shine to edges and peaks by brushing on thicker wax in those areas and polishing again.

    It's a bit pricey, and will take a good while, but you'll get a wall that looks like it's always been a polished antique... PLUS is an excuse to drink more cold Chang and listen to loud music over an extended period of time to help the project along

  7. #7
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    ^ It would look great but it would turn a one day project into a 5 day project. If you want a more rustic look do each board separately buy wipe each coat before dry with cheesecloth so the dark stain settles in the deep imperfections. When you have a pleasing rustic effect finish with clear natural semi gloss.
    This post has not been authorized by the TeakDoor censorship committee.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for ideas and tips, i will try upload a photo soon of my wall

    Pink

  9. #9
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    Berger stains are certainly the best way to go here.

  10. #10
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    Here is a photo of the wall


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