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Construction in Thailand Is building in Thailand as bad as it seems? Can properties really be built and fitted out to European standards? Would you like to Build your own house in Phuket, or a swimming pool in Bangkok? Solar water heating in Pattaya? Or maybe you want to build a resort or guesthouse on Koh Samui? If you want to build a luxury house in Thailand then this is the forum for you.

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Old 26-12-2016, 11:24 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VocalNeal View Post
Maximum suction head for the OP's pump is about 9 meters so yes a shallow well.

Yes the OP's installation has a water tank and yes he lives in a single storey house so he doesn't really need a check-valve spring but there was one supplied and the "contractor" had no real need to remove it. Without the spring there is a slight delay, enough to induce water hammer in a different installation.

One could argue that the force required to overcome the spring does detract from the pumps total output but not enough to worry about.
I know what your saying, but anything after about 3 meters a jet pump is a vastly superior choice at the same price.
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Old 26-12-2016, 11:26 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Thai3 View Post
Always been disappointed with our 150 w Mittsu pump, no where near enough pressure upstairs, ground floor is fine but bathroom is pathetic. Never knew you could adjust them, will have a go. Sounds like the Hitachi is a better system but they don't last as long?
Barstool talk. They last just fine. Imho they are way better at any wattage. 150 is small though. I have a single story with a 250 hitachi & its great.

Something you can try upstairs is to take apart your shower head, the actual piece the water comes out from, and gut it. Usually these things have flow limiters in them. Pry the guts out & put it back together. If it helps in the shower, your water much not be as hot, but you can turn down the flow on the water heater.

Last edited by Slick : 26-12-2016 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 26-12-2016, 11:35 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VocalNeal View Post
But he only has a 150W pump. I suspect the "other" switches you talk about are for ,say, a 300W pump.

My 200W pump works fine for a three storey house with a shower on the top floor. It is in its own space and may cycle on and off but they are made to do that. Water doesn't pulsate and I can't hear it so.

In Indonesia I had a small pump that I did adjust/measure using a pressure gauge but only because I borrowed one from the Instrument shop.
The 1.8/2.4 switch is only 25/35 psi. No real huge shockingly extreme demand. You are still supplying via the same size piping. 300W pump will have larger pipework and deliver a larger volume.

No need instrument shop fanciness. A PVC "T" fitting with a 1/2" NPT female thread plus a regular old PSI gauge with a 1/2" male NPT fitting threaded into it. Permanent fixture & sold everywhere here for pocket change.
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Old 26-12-2016, 11:44 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick
No need instrument shop fanciness.
Absolutely, but some knowledge of process engineering doesn't do any harm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick
300W pump will have larger pipework and deliver a larger volume.
Any pump installed only has access to the piping installed in the house, at normal shower /washing machine flow rates it makes little difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick
A PVC "T" fitting with a 1/2" NPT female thread
Don't limit yourself to NPT. Could be BSP, DIN, JIS :-)
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Old 26-12-2016, 12:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I'll have a go eventually at the adjustment, Slick, but I'm inclined to think you were on the money in your later post, saying the Hitachi is better, pressure-wise. I wouldn't say the Hitachi did not pulse at all, but did so a lot less than this unit. Quieter also. I may pursue getting it repaired, possibly under warranty, and put it back in service at a later date.

It's not like the Mitsubishi is unusable. Two people can still shower at the same time. I was just very surprised at the pressure difference. It quite dramatic for the same wattage pump.

And so far I don't see anything to fault the contractor on. The spring is not required. OK, maybe no reason to remove it, but no reason to leave it in also which is pretty clear in the schematic. He was responding to my complaint - trying different things. And I'll be surprised if the pressure adjustment is not pretty good where it is.

Thanks, all.
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Old 26-12-2016, 12:19 PM   #31 (permalink)
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VocalNeal: I can't PM you, but read your message. Now I understand your original comment. . But all's well. I've gotten some good advice and so far, at least, managing to ignore any sarcasm that came along with it.
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Old 26-12-2016, 12:19 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I checked the specs on both pumps. There doesn't seem to be much difference.

Never had a Hitachi. My Misubishi is on its second tank, being over 10 years old plus since I've been in the house. It works OK for me.

If there is a noticeable difference I'd be looking for a restriction somewhere. A friend recently had the water dept guys around and one of the things they did was to clean out the line upstream of the meter.

Having made it to 75 your chances of getting to 85 have increased dramatically, so you got at least another 10 years to sort it out :-)
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Old 26-12-2016, 12:25 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VocalNeal View Post
I checked the specs on both pumps. There doesn't seem to be much difference.

Never had a Hitachi. My Misubishi is on its second tank, being over 10 years old plus since I've been in the house. It works OK for me.

If there is a noticeable difference I'd be looking for a restriction somewhere. A friend recently had the water dept guys around and one of the things they did was to clean out the line upstream of the meter.

Having made it to 75 your chances of getting to 85 have increased dramatically, so you got at least another 10 years to sort it out :-)
Hey am I missing something here?

Are we talking about the spring in the TOP of the pump under a plastic cap? Or are we talking about a spring thats behind a cap on the BOTTOM of the pump, inline with the pumps pressure line to the house?

If its the spring thats on the TOP of the pump, that 100% needs to be there. No doubt.

If its a spring behind the cap on the bottom, nope that needs to be removed. Actually I don't remember a spring on the bottom at all.

A check valve has to be there at the top of the pump, otherwise the pressure will bleed back through the pump when it shuts off.
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Old 26-12-2016, 05:22 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick
Are we talking about the spring in the TOP of the pump under a plastic cap?
Yes. Looks like it is exerting pressure on some kind of valve. The schematic inside the pump sure looks to me like it optional if you have a tank, but it is in place now.
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Old 26-12-2016, 05:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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We also have a Mitsubishi water pump with pressure tank at our house, Almost the same as on the pictures you showed.
But our pump is "pulsating".
I think it is that what you wrote here, but I don't know if it is the same problem?
Sorry, but my husband is no technician,...
Our pump works well, jumps on and off every 15 seconds and the pressure is good.
But after two, three weeks, our pump will jump on and off all the time. There are only two, three seconds in between the on and off. Is this "pulsating"?
What does we have to buy or change?
Now a neighbour comes every three weeks, he opens a bold from the pressure thank and he lets all the water out of this tank. He closes it and everything is back to normal. When we open the water somewhere, the pump will only jump on every 15 or so seconds.
What do we have to do to stop this pulsating problem?
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Old 26-12-2016, 06:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importford View Post
We also have a Mitsubishi water pump with pressure tank at our house, Almost the same as on the pictures you showed.
But our pump is "pulsating".
I think it is that what you wrote here, but I don't know if it is the same problem?
Sorry, but my husband is no technician,...
Our pump works well, jumps on and off every 15 seconds and the pressure is good.
But after two, three weeks, our pump will jump on and off all the time. There are only two, three seconds in between the on and off. Is this "pulsating"?
What does we have to buy or change?
Now a neighbour comes every three weeks, he opens a bold from the pressure thank and he lets all the water out of this tank. He closes it and everything is back to normal. When we open the water somewhere, the pump will only jump on every 15 or so seconds.
What do we have to do to stop this pulsating problem?
The "pulsating" I was referring to was a difference in pressure you would feel, say, taking a shower. Open the shower valve, high pressure, and slowly drops until the pump kicks on, gets strong again, pump kicks off, drops again, etc... Its supposed to switch like that.

Every 15 seconds with a valve open sounds ok to me for this kind of pump. Its how its made to work.

When you say it jumps off and on 'all the time' is that with all valves closed? Or when you are running the water?

Honestly if no-one is techie around your house, its probably best just doing what you are doing. If bleeding the little tank fixes your issue then keep on doing that.
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Old 26-12-2016, 09:12 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VocalNeal
Having made it to 75 your chances of getting to 85 have increased dramatically, so you got at least another 10 years to sort it out :-)
Haha. Unless I get wound up over petty annoyances like this, hopefully, yes.
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Old 27-12-2016, 08:20 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by importford View Post
We also have a Mitsubishi water pump with pressure tank at our house, Almost the same as on the pictures you showed.
But our pump is "pulsating".
I think it is that what you wrote here, but I don't know if it is the same problem?
Sorry, but my husband is no technician,...
Our pump works well, jumps on and off every 15 seconds and the pressure is good.
But after two, three weeks, our pump will jump on and off all the time. There are only two, three seconds in between the on and off. Is this "pulsating"?
What does we have to buy or change?
Now a neighbour comes every three weeks, he opens a bold from the pressure thank and he lets all the water out of this tank. He closes it and everything is back to normal. When we open the water somewhere, the pump will only jump on every 15 or so seconds.
What do we have to do to stop this pulsating problem?

The "pulsating" I was referring to was a difference in pressure you would feel, say, taking a shower. Open the shower valve, high pressure, and slowly drops until the pump kicks on, gets strong again, pump kicks off, drops again, etc... Its supposed to switch like that.

Every 15 seconds with a valve open sounds ok to me for this kind of pump. Its how its made to work.

When you say it jumps off and on 'all the time' is that with all valves closed? Or when you are running the water?

Honestly if no-one is techie around your house, its probably best just doing what you are doing. If bleeding the little tank fixes your issue then keep on doing that.
You may be referring to pump cavitation due to low net positive suction head (NPSH). or air from semi blockages. Without knowing your set up its hard to know. Maybe draining is cleaning out the sludge and clearing some of the blockage which can cause the pump to surge. If its air,try bleeding the lines should stop it surging. If you are unfamiliar google: NPSH and cavitation.
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