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  1. #1
    rbm
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    Decking Recommendations

    I have a house east of Chiang Mai city. After three years, the 150 square metre wood deck has started to rot notwithstanding three repainting jobs. Will replace it soon but am torn between "Conwood" (wood fibre/concrete mix), Shera and outrageously high-priced "Thaisun Wood Composite" (a laminate). Has anyone had experience with either product and suggestions? Can anyone recommend a reliable installer? Grateful for any advice.

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    Make sure you're comparing Shera or Conwood floor or deck prices with Thai Sun deck prices, not their prices for their sidings which some dealers may tell you (100% wrongly - never, never, never!!) can be used on the floor. Shera and Conwood deck prices are at least twice the cost of their sidings.

    You also need to look at the base to see how far apart your supporting joists are before you put down any of these, to make sure they'll support the planks safely.

    Having had WPC you can't really make a direct comparison with Shera / Conwood as its a completely different product aimed at a different market, plus the finished 'look' is very different so you can't say if one's better value than the other.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbm
    Decking Recommendations
    a head but

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbm View Post
    I have a house east of Chiang Mai city. After three years, the 150 square metre wood deck has started to rot notwithstanding three repainting jobs. Will replace it soon but am torn between "Conwood" (wood fibre/concrete mix), Shera and outrageously high-priced "Thaisun Wood Composite" (a laminate). Has anyone had experience with either product and suggestions? Can anyone recommend a reliable installer? Grateful for any advice.
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago. We used Rothenburg clear undercoat and polyurethane top coats and they haven't had to be repainted yet

    The building set of pictures is at Sunshade build

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurgen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by rbm
    Decking Recommendations
    a head but
    Reminds me of the Aussie joke:

    "Bunnings Warning

    I'm not usually one for posting warnings about potential scams but I had a close call on Sunday. I walked into Bunnings at lunchtime and some old guy dressed in a red shirt with a green apron asked me if I wanted decking.

    Fortunately I got the first punch in and sorted him out, but those less suspecting might not be so lucky.

    Letting you know because I care."


    To the OP's question - I'd probably use Shera, but I'd guess that it would depend on the likely usage of the decking. I could be wrong but if you are going to be regularly dragging sun loungers and the like around on the decking then I'd consider the WPC simply because any scratches/gouges won't leave the area in need of repainting.

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    These guys are pretty good,
    supply and install with stumps and bearers, joists etc. approx. 3500-4000k per sqm.
    and its actual timber.
    + Real Plus One Decoration + ??????????????????????

    I have used them and they are good, just be sure to confirm the design 100%, they are not there to recommend design info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sometimewoodworker
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago. We used Rothenburg clear undercoat and polyurethane top coats and they haven't had to be repainted yet

    The building set of pictures is at Sunshade build
    About how much did that sunshade cost you, Sometime?

  8. #8
    rbm
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    Hi JohnG- thanx for the tip re. Spacing between girders. Dangerous to presume anything has a " standard" measurement.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbm View Post
    Hi JohnG- thanx for the tip re. Spacing between girders. Dangerous to presume anything has a " standard" measurement.
    When you buy the planks, whatever type you decide on, they should tell you the "standard" spacing, but there are reasons for "standard" not always being correct.

    As @Roobarb pointed out, it depends on your usage and choice of furniture. If you like sitting on the end of a day bed or tilting a chair back, and all the weight goes on narrow feet, then obviously you should put your joists closer together! Common sense should apply, but it can't always be relied on!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sometimewoodworker View Post
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago. We used Rothenburg clear undercoat and polyurethane top coats and they haven't had to be repainted yet

    The building set of pictures is at Sunshade build
    Take the time to look at this photo essay of a build.

    Great work sometimewoodworker ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by sometimewoodworker View Post
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago.
    Did you take off the roof?

    ... it's just that otherwise someone reading that "it has had no protection from the elements" who didn't look at the link may not realise that your Shera composite floor is protected from the elements by a Colorbond-style roof.
    Last edited by JohnG; 15-03-2016 at 06:26 AM.

  12. #12
    rbm
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by sometimewoodworker View Post
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago.
    Did you take off the roof?

    ... it's just that otherwise someone reading that "it has had no protection from the elements" who didn't look at the link may not realise that your Shera composite floor is protected from the elements by a Colorbond-style roof.
    Thanks for this. My deck has virtually no sun protection- continuous, glorious sun most of the year. Was 40 here yesterday, 30 kliks east of CM city. Pretty harsh for any product except stone, concrete or sand. I am tending towards Conwood and going with high-quality undercoat and paint.

  13. #13
    rbm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roobarb View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurgen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by rbm
    Decking Recommendations
    a head but
    Reminds me of the Aussie joke:

    "Bunnings Warning

    I'm not usually one for posting warnings about potential scams but I had a close call on Sunday. I walked into Bunnings at lunchtime and some old guy dressed in a red shirt with a green apron asked me if I wanted decking.

    Fortunately I got the first punch in and sorted him out, but those less suspecting might not be so lucky.

    Letting you know because I care."


    To the OP's question - I'd probably use Shera, but I'd guess that it would depend on the likely usage of the decking. I could be wrong but if you are going to be regularly dragging sun loungers and the like around on the decking then I'd consider the WPC simply because any scratches/gouges won't leave the area in need of repainting.
    Great decking humour. Never heard of Bunnings but will be vigilant in my strict interpretation of "Decking". Brightens up the Tuesday morning coffee. If I go with the WPC (like Conwood) my main concern should be high quality, scratch resistant topcoat. Can anyone give me guidance paint/ topcoat and on labour cost for an area of 150 sq. metres:
    (1) stripping off and taking away old deck, and
    (2) installing Conwood, priming and painting.

    Any advice on good reliable installers in the Mae On area would be appreciated.
    Grateful for any efforts to help.

  14. #14
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    I was at a hotel on the weekend with "holes" in their poolside conwood deck where the conwood had cracked because of lack of proper support.

    Like carpeting the eventual quality of the finished job is based on how much you spend "underneath" not how much you spend on the bit you see.

    Typical conwood is about 1 " thick wheres North American decking wood is 2" thick. Conwood needs better support.

    In this country steel framework on much less than 16" centres. The Conwood says 12" centres. Conwood

    NOTE: Non T lock decking says concrete base only! It is described as decorative not structural.
    Last edited by VocalNeal; 15-03-2016 at 10:23 AM.
    Better to think inside the pub, than outside the box?
    I apologize if any offence was caused. unless it was intended.
    You people, you think I know feck nothing; I tell you: I know feck all
    Those who cannot change their mind, cannot change anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbm View Post
    If I go with the WPC (like Conwood).....
    I think you're getting confused - Conwood (like Shera) is NOT a WPC. Its a composite (C), but there's no platic (P) and very little wood (W)!

    It's concrete with a mix of fibre (sawdust, wood shaving, straw, etc) patterned to look like wood - hence the name CONwood. For some reason it's been referred to here as "wood" by one poster when that is the one thing it's not.

    If you go for Shera or Conwood remember when painting it that it's NOT wood and don't treat it as wood - treat it as concrete.

    Agree 100% with @Vocal Neal about the base - a point I made before. If Conwood say 12" centres that's the minimum you need (and Shera is similar). You can put in whatever expensive foundations you like and waste a ridiculous amount of money on expensive materials, but if you don't get the basics right because you're a farang who thinks he always knows best all you have is the legendary lacquered dog-turd.


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    Having achieved the requisite number of posts, you can judge the degree of, or lack of, protection without visiting another site. You can also see the spacing of the supporting steel at the recommended 500mm distance



    Last edited by sometimewoodworker; 15-03-2016 at 08:27 PM. Reason: Additional data

  17. #17
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    I know of a good supplier of easily erected decking but they are here on the eastern seaboard.

    They supply the kit globally as well as throughout Thailand and if you want more information send me a private message.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bindog View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by sometimewoodworker
    We have had a Shera wood floor on our sunshade that was built 4 years ago, it has had no protection from the elements and is virtually as good today as it was 4 years ago. We used Rothenburg clear undercoat and polyurethane top coats and they haven't had to be repainted yet

    The building set of pictures is at Sunshade build
    About how much did that sunshade cost you, Sometime?
    ฿42,000 of which ฿22,000 was for the colourbond roof, our first and a test case for our house which has just had its roof put on, the posts were a custom order with hammock rings built in and AFIR 9 or 12mm deformed rebar instead of the usual 3mm and cost about 800 each.

    We also built a Waterhouse or Sala 2 years ago
    Again using Sherawood but this time used one of the heat reducing paints designed for roofs. It is effective in that as it's a shoes off area your feet don't burn despite the walkway being in full sun most of the day





    And if you really want you can see the whole process
    Water house - Sala

  19. #19
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    I do appreciate that sala.
    It's been done nicely.
    Did you use 500mm cts for your joists there also.
    I think I would have gone smaller as I'm a bit of a lump that likes to dance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by splitlid View Post
    I do appreciate that sala.
    It's been done nicely.
    Did you use 500mm cts for your joists there also.
    I think I would have gone smaller as I'm a bit of a lump that likes to dance.
    Thanks, on the walkway it was less, but I don't remember the spacing under the floor. You will be able to see it in the construction pictures the floor is 4m x 4m.

    At the moment my internet access is somewhat limited so I can't check for you, my bandwidth is taken up in keeping my build thread up to date. If you have any interest it is at Workshop and house

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    Yes I followed the build on CHT I think. Looking at the pics above it looks like you've gone center- and worked your way out at 500 cts. Adding an extra for fixing the rear seats to.
    Is there much spring in the boards?

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    Quote Originally Posted by splitlid View Post
    Yes I followed the build on CHT I think. Looking at the pics above it looks like you've gone center- and worked your way out at 500 cts. Adding an extra for fixing the rear seats to.
    Is there much spring in the boards?
    I'm bored of repeating it, as all too obviously are others.

    Shera and Conwood decking is not wood.

    The decking is a fibre - cement composite with minimal 'spring'.

    The manufacturers both recommend joists at a maximum of 30 cm centres based on Thai weight and regular usage. There are a number of tables available showing the centres and joists / framing required for specific requirements, but 30cm is the manufacturer's recommended maximum.

    Some forum experts will tell you something else based on their superior knowledge as an expat and disregard for anything written by / in Thai.

    Believe whichever one suits you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by splitlid View Post
    Yes I followed the build on CHT I think. Looking at the pics above it looks like you've gone center- and worked your way out at 500 cts. Adding an extra for fixing the rear seats to.
    Is there much spring in the boards?
    None that I notice and I'm no lightweight either

    BTW

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post

    I'm bored of repeating it, as all too obviously are others.

    Shera and Conwood decking is not wood.

    The decking is a fibre - cement composite with minimal 'spring'.

    The manufacturers both recommend joists at a maximum of 30 cm centres based on Thai weight and regular usage. There are a number of tables available showing the centres and joists / framing required for specific requirements, but 30cm is the manufacturer's recommended maximum.

    Some forum experts will tell you something else based on their superior knowledge as an expat and disregard for anything written by / in Thai.

    Believe whichever one suits you.
    Easy there John, I asked SWW a specific question about his specific build.

  25. #25
    rbm
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
    Make sure you're comparing Shera or Conwood floor or deck prices with Thai Sun deck prices, not their prices for their sidings which some dealers may tell you (100% wrongly - never, never, never!!) can be used on the floor. Shera and Conwood deck prices are at least twice the cost of their sidings.

    You also need to look at the base to see how far apart your supporting joists are before you put down any of these, to make sure they'll support the planks safely.

    Having had WPC you can't really make a direct comparison with Shera / Conwood as its a completely different product aimed at a different market, plus the finished 'look' is very different so you can't say if one's better value than the other.
    Good mornin all. Am off to Global this am to check out costs and possible installation. My steel joists are 50 cm or 20 inches apart.

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