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  1. #1
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    Advice given if required

    Alright chaps
    I usually fuck about on here but I will try to give something back to the forum and its users
    I have over 25 years in construction management / civil engineer works
    I originally started work in the construction, eg housing and nursing homes etc
    About 15 years ago I moved specifically into civils and concrete frame construction
    I still have a basic knowledge on house bashing but my area of expertise is civils.
    So if anyone is needing advice or you have a problem in this field I may be able to help.
    I am not saying I know it all but I can always ask a colleague if I am stumped
    Pm me if I can be of assistance
    Jim

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Already done nidhogg that's what give the idea to post this
    Nice one mate

  4. #4
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    Got your finger on the pulse Nid, you'd make a good mod.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by palexxxx View Post
    Got your finger on the pulse Nid, you'd make a good mod.

    Heh....

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    I realise there's no short answer to it, but I've been comtemplating a pet project of building a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar. Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.

    A german builder mate reckons it's no problem, even considering the frequent flooding and gave me some advice I didn't fully understand as a layperson.
    Thing is, I don't trust any of the local builders to do it right, since it's not something they've ever done.

    Now, first and most important question:
    Are the necessary additives and isolation materials easily available in Thailand, or shall I just forget it?

  8. #8
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    jimbobs ....... ... I just posted a question to you on that other Thread before realising you had this Thread started .

    I was asking this --- I hadn't realised how the beams had been attached to the concrete uprights . But I had to dig out an old photo and this is what I see ........



    I hadn't known they attached short verticals about 300mm long using a couple of bolts.

    Can I safely take off those short verticals and bolt into place new verticals 1500mm long ? With maybe a bit of bracing ?

    The replacement roof will be much lighter.


    Wasp

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    where can i get a job ?

  10. #10
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    ^ Write a sequel for Dr Seuss...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaitongBoy View Post
    ^ Write a sequel for Dr Seuss...
    Requires a WP.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller View Post
    I realise there's no short answer to it, but I've been comtemplating a pet project of building a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar.


    But seriously.
    Great thread. Out of greens today. get you soon.


    a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller
    Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.
    Stay away from the bunker ! It will not end well for you if you are German. I know, I saw the film

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    Quote Originally Posted by can123 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by stroller
    Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.
    Stay away from the bunker ! It will not end well for you if you are German. I know, I saw the film
    Nah...
    Thais aren't like that.


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller View Post
    I realise there's no short answer to it, but I've been comtemplating a pet project of building a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar. Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.

    A german builder mate reckons it's no problem, even considering the frequent flooding and gave me some advice I didn't fully understand as a layperson.
    Thing is, I don't trust any of the local builders to do it right, since it's not something they've ever done.

    Now, first and most important question:
    Are the necessary additives and isolation materials easily available in Thailand, or shall I just forget it?
    Hydroponics is it my mate?

    There's nothing I can think of if the area floods,

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wasp View Post
    jimbobs ....... ... I just posted a question to you on that other Thread before realising you had this Thread started .

    I was asking this --- I hadn't realised how the beams had been attached to the concrete uprights . But I had to dig out an old photo and this is what I see ........



    I hadn't known they attached short verticals about 300mm long using a couple of bolts.

    Can I safely take off those short verticals and bolt into place new verticals 1500mm long ? With maybe a bit of bracing ?

    The replacement roof will be much lighter.


    Wasp
    If your posts are like that when you break out the outer encasing that's the way to go ,
    But I would get 10mm steel box plate to strengthen the joint and drill holes where the fixings are
    Some might say it's OTT but I would it's cheap and would help me sleep better when heavy winds occur.
    I tend to over engineer things , because I have had things fail that I never dreamed possible
    Good luck

  17. #17
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    A bunker is not so far fetched. The opening should be well above a possible waterline and doors water tight. I have personally traveled under a city heated by steam. The sump pumps are what keeps it from flooding. That and concrete. Now if you're in rock all the better. A rice farm in muck would be a real problem.

    As a kid we would sneak into abandoned Nike missile sights. Talk about an underground bunker. The sumps were full but surprisingly the main areas were not flooded. There was no power we were aware of in these missile bays. Had to be a hell of alot of concrete.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishlocker
    A rice farm in muck would be a real problem.
    That's what I have.
    A friend reckons there are additives for the concrete to waterprove it and it needs to be cast in one go, with additional insulation on the outside.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by fishlocker
    A rice farm in muck would be a real problem.
    That's what I have.
    A friend reckons there are additives for the concrete to waterprove it and it needs to be cast in one go, with additional insulation on the outside.
    I have done this in basement car parks the concrete can be normal mix but you would need to black Jack it, it's a rubberized paint , or you could simply use visqueen with a 450 lap
    As for pouring in 1 ,you could use water bar at your joints, vertical and horizontal this bar's any water from penetrating through the joint which is vulnerable.
    Obviously you would need rebar as well for strength to retain the loadings
    Sorry stroller I thought you was messing around
    It can be done but it would be expensive
    Last edited by jimbobs; 07-02-2016 at 11:36 AM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbobs
    But I would get 10mm steel box plate to strengthen the joint and drill holes where the fixings are
    Definitely needed.
    Those prefab columns are cheap and usually have a few 5mm diameter rebar inside. The top part which is half cut away and furthermore has two holes is extremely weak. It is intended for connecting to a horizontal beam and not for a vertical extension, especially not for 1.5m of extension..
    The voices in my head are mostly kind, I also like the music.

  21. #21
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    You can always call these guys Wasp. Take a look atmthe picture on their site.

    Knockdown Houses

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickschoppers View Post
    You can always call these guys Wasp. Take a look atmthe picture on their site.

    Knockdown Houses
    I can see those are very solid . But they're solid thick timber beams set into concrete pipe .

    Very strong . And a nice way to go if I was starting all over again with this .

    Wasp

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wasp View Post
    jimbobs ....... ... I just posted a question to you on that other Thread before realising you had this Thread started .

    I was asking this --- I hadn't realised how the beams had been attached to the concrete uprights . But I had to dig out an old photo and this is what I see ........



    I hadn't known they attached short verticals about 300mm long using a couple of bolts.

    Can I safely take off those short verticals and bolt into place new verticals 1500mm long ? With maybe a bit of bracing ?

    The replacement roof will be much lighter.


    Wasp
    Your 'supports' are probably like that because at some stage someine's raised your house up - quite common, a team just comes with a dozen chain jacks, lifts the whole house up to the required height, sticks in an extension, then bolts it in place and takes the jacks away.

    Simplest solution is to get some new posts made to the full height (not expensive), get everything ready, jack the house up, put in your new posts, and its all done in less than a day. The house opposite us didn't even bother taking out the furniture. Its a 'Thai style' solution, but its better than continuing to bodge it.

  24. #24
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    Agree.

  25. #25
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    On second thoughts I just read your 'seriously...' thread and realised it obviously hadn't been jacked up at all, they had just bought posts that were too short!

    Whatever bodge you make it's going to be either an ugly cheap bodge or an ugly expensive bodge.

    Its unlikely there's going to be any sort of decent re-bar in your posts - that short and thin, they're normally used for a shed or a fence. Either don't care and bodge it with some bolted on extensions or do the job properly, take out the old posts which are probably not very deep and not tied in at all, and replace them with new ones of the right height.

    Up to you, but a couple of locals should be able to do the former or a couple of locals with a jack-hammer the latter.

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