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  1. #26
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    No it never was jacked up .

    The builder guys followed the sloping roof line and of course if you keep going it gets to be very low at the end . And I don't like it .
    There won't even be any gain from my doing this work ...... just a higher ceiling which will take away the claustrophobic effect .

    Of course once I start looking closely there's all sorts of shitty work that has gone on and was then covered up with those suspended plaster ceiling tiles . Despite all my discontent it's easily the best house in the area ! Which says something about the area I suppose.

    When I contemplated doing a tidy up ( and this ceiling elevation ) it was clear that probably I would have to remove 12 of these columns . Then dig down 12 new holes and put in 12 replacement columns 1500mm taller. So I asked the question here in case there would be a less messy but strong enough solution .

    I ended up making THIS decision but your words { and lom's } have me thinking AGAIN !!! ............




    It's not a case of not caring .
    I do care . But I also do listen to the advice here . And my final solution is looking not so final at all.

    Thank you JohnG. I do appreciate it.



    Wasp

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lom View Post
    Those prefab columns are cheap and usually have a few 5mm diameter rebar inside. The top part which is half cut away and furthermore has two holes is extremely weak. It is intended for connecting to a horizontal beam and not for a vertical extension, especially not for 1.5m of extension..
    lom .... an excellent point well made . Thanks.

    Once these things are pointed out to me they make total sense .



    Wasp

  3. #28
    Thailand Expat Pragmatic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller
    I realise there's no short answer to it, but I've been comtemplating a pet project of building a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar. Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.
    Are you talking about ground water or actual flooding. I have a basement under my house in ground that has ground water and it's dry. If it is ground water you're talking about Stroller it is piss easy to do.

  4. #29
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    lom's right. I really, really wouldn't do that and make the slot for the extension longer - all you're doing is making the weakest point even weaker.

    If you don't want to dig everything up then, to put it simply, bash the top 30 cm or so off one of the posts to see what sort of re-bar you've got (if any!). Once you know that (assuming they're all the same), if there's enough re-bar you can then just make up some formwork like a box to whatever height you want around some similar size re-bar which you've wired securely to the 30 cm of original re-bar you've exposed and fill the box with a cement-heavy mix.

    Any decent local builders should be able to make up the formwork for you, including making a similar 'slot' at the top with some cut-off plastic pipe put in so that you have the same bolt holes.

    If there's not enough re-bar there to connect to then I'm afraid its back to replacing all the posts. Bodging up a longer extension really isn't a good idea - the longer your extension, the more dangerous it is.

  5. #30
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    Thanks John .

    I've listened .

    I've always wondered why people ask a question if they are not going to listen to the answer . So I've listened .

    It's 10 Columns that need to come out . Some welcome work for the local guys .
    Ten pillars and then at least I'll know it's pretty solid.

    Thanks for your time on this .



    Wasp

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pragmatic View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by stroller
    I realise there's no short answer to it, but I've been comtemplating a pet project of building a shed-like storage outhouse with a cellar. Or possibly just a semi-buried bunker-like cellar with greenery on top.
    Are you talking about ground water or actual flooding. I have a basement under my house in ground that has ground water and it's dry. If it is ground water you're talking about Stroller it is piss easy to do.
    I expect ground water, but not sure what the level is. With flooding I mean the seasonal rainfall, 6" at most, drains within hours. Obviously the walls need to extend above, as well as the access opening and vents.

    Just want a storage space with an even temperature to mature LaoKao in wood barrels and maybe dry-age smoked ham and stuff.

    I know, it's a bit excentric.

  7. #32
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    ^^^^for a cheep and cheerful fix put a filter(French drain around it with a non permeable barrier (plastic sheeting around and under the floor that will do it.
    It will need a run off lower than basement obviously,or a holding tank you can pump as and when required

  8. #33
    Thailand Expat Pragmatic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stroller
    I expect ground water,
    You can either use a butile membrane before concreting or use cold joints where you join concrete pours together. If you still get leakeage, which should be minimal, dig a sump hole next to where it leaks. Line it with concrete perferated rings and put in a submersible pump with a float switch. Which is what I did when the builder fcuked up.

    In Concrete Construction, what is a Cold Joint? (with pictures)

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wasp View Post
    Thanks John .

    I've listened .

    I've always wondered why people ask a question if they are not going to listen to the answer . So I've listened .

    It's 10 Columns that need to come out . Some welcome work for the local guys .
    Ten pillars and then at least I'll know it's pretty solid.

    Thanks for your time on this .

    Wasp
    Bash the top off one first to see if there's any re-bar to connect to. You never know! If there is you've saved a lot of work, if there isn't you've only wasted a little bit.

  10. #35
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    Having been to Siem Reap twice & having a Engineering Designer Work history, I find Angkor Wat an amazing edifice to Geotechnical Engineering on a massive scale, from the 7th to 13th Centuries. Amazing that such huge temples were built in a 7m deep swamp and are still there today. Every Engineer owes it to themselves to read up the history of this Cambodian Heritage Site and go and marvel at the construction. 1 million people lived in the adjacent area in 1200 AD, ... when London had 15,000 population, Paris & Rome 30,000 each. Only China had cities of 1 Million population 1250 AD. Cambodia was the powerhouse S/E Asian Country and Economy then. Hard to believe today.

  11. #36
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    Hi Jim

    I'm starting a project which is somewhat bigger than I expected. Would love some input if you're interested in talking.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenThumb View Post
    Hi Jim

    I'm starting a project which is somewhat bigger than I expected. Would love some input if you're interested in talking.
    Yes of course mate
    There's some knowledgeable guys on here who will chip in too

  13. #38
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    Here’s one for you mate:
    What is the professional way to seal concrete floors, water and drain piping passing through concrete floors.
    The reason I ask is that after about 8 years the upstairs ‘wet’ bathroom in our pole home has starting to drip water to the lower level. Into an open area but has disintegrated gypsum ceiling. I have flooded the bathroom floor with concrete sealant and it has abated somewhat but suspect it is osmosis through tile grout and around piping. Sealing the floor prior to tiling would have inhibited tile adhesion methinks.
    Assume problem largely due to concrete floor, tile cement hardening and shrinking ?


    I understand that to solve my problem will require redoing the floor ..I hammer drilled and plumbed the bathroom and the whole house but just cemented in pipes...sigh!

  14. #39
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    Don’t want jump the gun on your valued advice:


    Have looked for some mastic type sealant for around PVC pipes to no avail. Methinks perhaps the expansion and contraction of PVC piping is the issue. Have not found (in Thailand) any sealant that adheres to PVC piping. If you know or can recommend would be great…can fix two useless leaking plastic water tanks too perhaps...55
    Thanks in advance..

  15. #40
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    OKAY ‘as you were’ seems the two floor floodings of sealant I did in the wet must have been absorbed and hardened in the last two months of dry windy heat. Several showers and not one drip... We shall see..Maybe buy a sheet of gypsum to fix the downstairs ceiling now.

  16. #41
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    Sorry mate I've only just seen this
    You can buy a water repellent grout that you use for swimming pools
    I would probably tile it and use this grout
    But it looks like you've fixed it already
    Usually a pipe will have a puddle flange on it to stop water seeping through

  17. #42
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    Do they use anything like Red Guard over there to create a water proof barrier prior to installing tile?

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbobs View Post
    Sorry mate I've only just seen this
    You can buy a water repellent grout that you use for swimming pools
    I would probably tile it and use this grout
    But it looks like you've fixed it already
    Usually a pipe will have a puddle flange on it to stop water seeping through
    Thanks mate.

  19. #44
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    Just a thought:
    Way back when I had a younger man’s patience I renovated our houses in Canada and Australia. Quite a lot of floor and wall tiling...always used tubs of waterproof glue type cement i.e. not thin coat cement based (messy as hell!).
    Think if I ever did another bathroom floor (MOST UNLIKELY) I would try to find something similar.
    Thanks to all for input.

  20. #45
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    Okay here’s annuva one :
    Have two,now useless, 2000 litre blue plastic water tanks..One just started sprouting water at the drain recess corner the other I whacked with the brush cutter..DOH! .
    Have tried many sealants and even a soldering iron. Anyone seen a product for an effective DIY repair?

  21. #46
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    Not really. Difficult as you now know to fix those problems without buying a special product. Sika do some stuff. Or maybe fiberglass.

  22. #47
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    Quite a few videos on YouTube on how to weld plastic/polyethylene tanks. Soldering Iron and like plastic material required to make the welds. I would think the plastic material for soldering is available there locally.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by crepitas View Post
    Okay here’s annuva one :
    Have two,now useless, 2000 litre blue plastic water tanks..One just started sprouting water at the drain recess corner the other I whacked with the brush cutter..DOH! .
    Have tried many sealants and even a soldering iron. Anyone seen a product for an effective DIY repair?
    If you really want to you can get a two-pack marine sealant gel from a marine supplier, which can supposedly even be applied underwater, but it'll probably be as expensives as some tanks!

    Failing that a pack of two 'sticks' of resin and hardener from HomeWorks / HomePro, at around 150 baht. Make sure the surface is completely dry, roughen it up slightly with some very rough sandpaper, make sure you mix equal amounts of the two sticks (cut the two sticks together instead of trying to guess) and apply on the INSIDE of the tank. If you can't get in find someone small who can, but make sure they can get out!!

    (obvious hints: lie the tank down on some towels so you don't puncture it on a stone again, and crawl in; with a torch; with a friend outside in case you get stuck; don't do this on a slope)
    Last edited by JohnG; 01-03-2016 at 11:16 PM.

  24. #49
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    Concrete framework for a multi-story building.
    Can it be done alone if well planned?

  25. #50
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    I wouldn't like to tackle it alone Dapper
    The Thai where very ingenious when they built my house and they impressed me at times
    But it could be desperately frustrating trying to change their attitude to how I wanted the frame completing
    I can't work in the heat and it's hard work doing the framing
    I personally would not use less than 4 men on a single story house
    On a multi storey I'd double it because the lifting and placement is mainly manual lifting
    It's labour intensive in the UK it's more so in Thailand
    All thought with tenacity and youth you may do it
    I could not

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