Thread: Constructing Pool, Bad Pour - Need Advice

Chris
I agree with you about the stability, that pool is not going to collapse, the reo size and spacing is plenty enough. 25mm cover to reo should be plenty enough with good waterproofing.
If that was my pool I woul pour a chamfer along the bottom corner to cover the exposed reo, chamfer approx 100mm wide. the pour should be strong cement grout, keyed into the concrete wall. Leave some contraction joints to control cracking, every 2000mm.
Chamfer poured around base perimeter. Then waterproof as you say.
I would leave the bulge in the wall, it's a bulge, so what. Very few people will notice it anyway.
Good luck with your project.

I am no expert and can only give info from my pool which was built last summer. Of course they should have used metal forms and rods to support everything.

My pool (7.5x4) had a leak after everything was done. I would have never dreamed a leak was possible but after the first night the water drained 12"s. In my case they did not vibrate enough around some pipes that came up between the wall rebar. I was less then happy and it took a diver a day to locate the problem. They came a chissled out a huge section. It was way more then i thought it needed. They then poured new concrete and all is well.

Your pool looks a mess and its possible you going to have a few leaks. If it was me i would look for any cracks and.cold cement and have them start chisseling. You should be able to see the good from the bad. Then get hydraulic (i think thats it) cement and make the patches. I believe this is your only option and the pool company should know this. I would be worried in the future as i get the feeling there is no warranty. GL

Originally Posted by yankee99

I am no expert and can only give info from my pool which was built last summer. Of course they should have used metal forms and rods to support everything.

My pool (7.5x4) had a leak after everything was done. I would have never dreamed a leak was possible but after the first night the water drained 12"s. In my case they did not vibrate enough around some pipes that came up between the wall rebar. I was less then happy and it took a diver a day to locate the problem. They came a chissled out a huge section. It was way more then i thought it needed. They then poured new concrete and all is well.

Your pool looks a mess and its possible you going to have a few leaks. If it was me i would look for any cracks and.cold cement and have them start chisseling. You should be able to see the good from the bad. Then get hydraulic (i think thats it) cement and make the patches. I believe this is your only option and the pool company should know this. I would be worried in the future as i get the feeling there is no warranty. GL

geotextile lining with polyurea nothing else need and ready in use same day...

How much per swim will that pool eventually cost you?

Originally Posted by swampfox1001

How much per swim will that pool eventually cost you?

That's a bit like owning your own car vs riding the bus. Of course riding the bus is more economical, but there's more to life than dollar in, dollar out economics.

Providing this fix works, then this pool will have cost about $7.5k when all is said and done.

Originally Posted by Fondles

Fibreglass pools.

KRABI POOL SERVICES BY ANANDA POOLS

Thank you.

Originally Posted by swampfox1001

How much per swim will that pool eventually cost you?

I had a friend who spent $50,000 on a pool in Florida. It was quite impressive. Used it everyday for a couple of weeks, then rarely ever used it again. Eventually, given his increase in insurance rates and monthly fees, he filled it in and made a spice garden! I am a swimmer, so I would get good use out of one.

I am using my pool every evening now it has got hot again

worth at least b100 a time

Originally Posted by DrAndy

I am using my pool every evening now it has got hot again

worth at least b100 a time

maybe i will make a profit on my pool? I have 4 people using my pool a minimum twice a day 365 days a year [pool temp average 30].


100X4=400. 400X2=800 800X365=292,000 baht

Hi there, I have just built a new pool, didn't have the problems you have, thank the good lord. However, I did ask a friend of mine in the UK, civil engineer, about bonding concrete in case we had a problem. He told me the best stuff is straight latex glue which the carpenters here use and paint it straight onto the original concrete and then pour or trowel in your repair. Results are pretty good, used it on my fish pond.

Good luck and all the best.

Originally Posted by daveboy

Honestly I'd dig it out and start again.

I think the same, seen quite few "construction" projects here."Yes I can do that","No Problem" Impossible to get anyone to admit to a screw up, etc

Hi Chris,
I have had this evening discussions with the dutch guy, the general consensus is, remove some of the concrete around the exposed part to provide you with a concave and fill able hole. This will also give you an indication of how deep the porous area is. Looking at the pics, you have at least a 200 mm plus wall thickness i doubt if the porous part is more than a few cm deep. I would use sika water plug with cement to then fill the hole. This is to protect the re-bar, more than prevent leakage. i would be surprised if there is leakage at all.
In my younger day i built concrete water tanks, 100's of the mothers, this was not an uncommon problem.
Getting back to the pool, the water proofing is in the coatings that are applied after the concrete shell is constructed. Looking at the pics, you will want to square up your walls, this being the case, there is 40 mm plus in areas to achieve this.
if you are concerned, add some water proofing ad mixture to the render, Sika carry this product.
Tiles I assume are the finish covering, make sure the tiler uses the small crosses or the mosaics on a back matting. If this does not happen the Khmer tend to butt the tiles together which does no allow grout of any substance between the tiles.
This results in the grout falling out.
Then use a grout that is recommended for pools.
Back in Oz the majority of the pools have a marble- cement render finish, it has some acrylic glue component, sets like the proverbial shit to the blanket and achieves waterproofing.
I hope this helps
cheers.

The water tank guy has it
Too many crazies with the dig it out solution total overkill
Fill the cracks and gaps with cement and then a couple of good coats of sealer
I have used Weber Top Coat with great results

^No doubt in Thailand?

Originally Posted by Plumbersteve

Hi Chris,
I have had this evening discussions with the dutch guy, the general consensus is, remove some of the concrete around the exposed part to provide you with a concave and fill able hole. This will also give you an indication of how deep the porous area is. Looking at the pics, you have at least a 200 mm plus wall thickness i doubt if the porous part is more than a few cm deep. I would use sika water plug with cement to then fill the hole. This is to protect the re-bar, more than prevent leakage. i would be surprised if there is leakage at all.
In my younger day i built concrete water tanks, 100's of the mothers, this was not an uncommon problem.
Getting back to the pool, the water proofing is in the coatings that are applied after the concrete shell is constructed. Looking at the pics, you will want to square up your walls, this being the case, there is 40 mm plus in areas to achieve this.
if you are concerned, add some water proofing ad mixture to the render, Sika carry this product.
Tiles I assume are the finish covering, make sure the tiler uses the small crosses or the mosaics on a back matting. If this does not happen the Khmer tend to butt the tiles together which does no allow grout of any substance between the tiles.
This results in the grout falling out.
Then use a grout that is recommended for pools.
Back in Oz the majority of the pools have a marble- cement render finish, it has some acrylic glue component, sets like the proverbial shit to the blanket and achieves waterproofing.
I hope this helps
cheers.

Thanks Steve, I'll do exactly that. You'll have to pop over for a swim when it's done (hopefully it'll still have water in it).

I'm just refilling my pool for the second time (300 m3), after an algea bloom I could not control, it will take time... This was to be expected without a working filter. See Japanese house.
As far as your problem is concerned, I do not see any problem waterproofing this. First, have a sand, cement powder and liquid waterproofing silicone mixed and packed in the area on the photos.
Then let them add the same mix all over to finish before tiling. A 3 coats of cement-water mix applied with a soft broom will make the whole thing water tight. The tiles on top will add and the pool grade grout too.
This is my solution, and anything you will do with special products will work too, a bit more expansively, naturally.
Structurally, there is nothing to worry about, idem for the steel reinforcement, it will not bleed rust tru all that.
Have a look at my pool, there are no cracks, 0.
Concrete has tremendous resistance to pressure, not much to tension; reinforcement takes care of this. It may sound funny, but thin well reinforced concrete (3-4 inches thick) is, under pressure, better resistant to cracks than 20 " thick cement.
I've built a ferro-cement boat hull with less than 1,5 " thickness, a 45 footer, it broke the rocks it was hitting!
I agree with those who saw this as a small problem with an easy solution.
Plumbersteve is right.

Originally Posted by Old Monkey

I'm just refilling my pool for the second time (300 m3), after an algea bloom I could not control

just throw in a couple of cups of algacide, then filter, then backwash all the crap out

yes, you don't have a filter so all the dead algae will sink to the bottom, making a sludge you could vacuum out

Originally Posted by DrAndy

Originally Posted by Old Monkey

I'm just refilling my pool for the second time (300 m3), after an algea bloom I could not control

just throw in a couple of cups of algacide, then filter, then backwash all the crap out

yes, you don't have a filter so all the dead algae will sink to the bottom, making a sludge you could vacuum out

Thank you! Will do!

Just an update, I went ahead and straightened everything out with a render mixed with Sika Latex, then two coats of top seal.

We did a test fill a couple of day ago before tiling and did the bucket test. It didn't loose a drop!

Good to hear. Dodged a nasty one.

well done, always nice to get some feedback

Originally Posted by brisie

Very user friendly website
I wouldn't be worried about it and you could call the dome wall a feature wall so it improves the property value.

Sika Top Seal 107: Authorised Stockist & Applicator: M.M. Enterprises Pune.


EdIT I didn't read or see that there was 2 more pages of the thread before posting ^ the above

We rendered everything straight again including the curved wall from the pour. I'll add some photos tomorrow.

Apart from a good tidy up and the planting the garden the pool and pool house are now done. I always hate threads where you don't get to see the end product so here's a couple of pics. We're off to Europe for a month, we'll fill it and plant the area surrounding the pool when we get back. Although the way it's raining at the moment it might have filled itself by the time we get back.





You can't see it in the pics but there are RGB LED's strips (comes in roles) fitted under the lip of the stone around the edge that are connected to dimmers in the house, this means you can make the lighting whatever color you like or even a mix of colours in different places. Later I'm planning to use an Arduino board to program a bit of a light show.

Originally Posted by ChrisInCambo

Although the way it's raining at the moment it might have filled itself by the time we get back.

Unless it still leaks...