Look after elephants at Thailand's Elephant Nature Foundation
Danielle Lancaster
April 23, 2010
Washing the elephants is just one of your tasks at Thailand's Elephant Nature Foundation park.
Picture: Danielle Lancaster
Trainer Sangduen 'Lek' Chailert was named a Hero of Asia by TIME Magazine.
Picture: Danielle Lancaster
SLOWLY the long grey trunk encircles my body, finishing the sniffing inspection with a puff that raises the fine dusty earth I sit upon.
I hesitate to look up and can feel my heart beating. A huge elephant foot rests next to me. It covers an area more than five of my own hands and I appreciate the immense size and apparent strength of these animals – the largest land animal on Earth. There is nothing between us, no fence - no guard or even a mahout (elephant handler).
Words sung softly in a north Thai dialect begin to calm me. I look across and Sangduen "Lek" Chailert's dark eyes meet mine. She smiles reassuringly as Faa Mai, a 181kg baby elephant rests on her lap in preparation for an afternoon nap.
"Don't worry, you are with me and I am her nanny, she likes you," says Lek of the elephant above me.
That's a relief, for that trunk contains 100,000 different muscles and with one swipe it could knock a human unconscious, and one stomp from that wrinkled foot could have me saying goodbye to this world forever. Yet this is a happy elephant, says Lek (her Thai nickname translates as "small one").
The female elephant standing over me is Mae Bua Tong, one of 33 "happy" elephants varying in age from infants to old-timers that live at the 60ha Elephant Nature Foundation, in the breathtaking Mae Taeng Valley, about an hour north of Chiang Mai in northeast Thailand.
Park morals
Inside the park's boundaries, Lek and her team heal abused and neglected elephants so they are able to "live out the rest of their lives in peace and dignity". Each is free from arduous work obligations such as logging, ridiculous tourism antics, or being ridden for hours at a time with a hard metal frame rubbing their back, often causing painful pressure sores. Now the tourists are coming to this little-known park. For through word of mouth, stories of the team's work and this unforgettable place are spreading.
While visitors are not allowed to ride the elephants, they do get close to them on many occasions. There's feeding to be done. These giants of the forest consume 10 per cent of their bodyweight daily, and that adds up to a truckload of bananas, pineapples, pumpkins, bamboo and other elephant delicacies to be diced and sliced for hand feeding.
Then it's bathtime down at the river, where the elephants relish in you throwing buckets of water over them and receiving a rubdown and scratch. For some of the herd this is also playtime when they frolic in the water, diving, ducking and floating on the river's current while others are content spraying a trunkful of water over anyone nearby or smooching for affectionate and slobbery elephant trunk kisses. The mahouts stand nearby, keeping the protective mothers busy as visitors enjoy more play time with the babies who love to explore and interact with humans.
This is all part of the healing: the retraining of the elephants that not all humans are bad. And Lek should know about healing. Her grandfather was a Khamu (hill tribe) shaman, who once was given an elephant aspayment for saving a life. Today, she protects these endangered Asian elephants. Lek was named a Hero of Asia by Time magazine.
Each elephant has a tale
There are stories for those who wish to listen, on how the elephants arrived here, and on Lek's other work and commitment to north Thailand's tribe people.
One story is of the beautiful and calm Jokia – which means "eye from heaven" – a mother elephant that was blinded with a slingshot for trying to tend to her newborn calf; And then there's Lilly, an elephant that was given amphetamines to keep her working round-the-clock on illegal logging; And Boon Khum, a magnificent male that was chained to a tree as its tusks were cut out with a chainsaw causing a life-threatening infection.
Pry a little deeper and Lek will tell you about her efforts on a "Jumbo Express": a plan to get medicine, educational supplies and essentials supplied free to hill tribes and their elephants.
Visitors can join Lek on a trip to the isolated tribes, or remain at the reserve where they can receive a soothing massage from a local woman. My travelling partner and I decided to give the "tourist" elephant venues a wide berth after hearing of Lek and her herd of elephants. We were not disappointed. While day visits to the park are very popular and numbers restricted to 20 people a day so everyone has a personal experience, we had decided to stay overnight.
Opening our door in the morning to the sight of a huge Asian elephant lumbering past trumpeting good morning will be a memory we'll never forget. Our only regret was we had not booked longer.
Travel is all about experiences and tourism is not all glitz and glass. A venture to help, understand and be enlightened can be as relaxing and rewarding as any holiday you could plan.
Day visits and overnight visits of two days/one night or three days/two nights are offered. One week, two week and three week volunteer stays are also available where you can assist with the running of the park and care of the elephants.
More: www.elephantnaturefoundation.org
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