One of my varied interests, purely as a hobby, is archaeology. I like to poke around in areas that I visit and see what I can find. While visiting Udon a couple years back I made a side trip to Ban Chiang. (The old name is Ban Chiang Hain.) This is one of the most important sites in Asia. It is also a World Heritage site.
To get there take route 22 East from Udon, as I recall the town/site itself is not well marked. Take route 2225 to the vilage. In the large wat is where the dig is, in a separate building. The map below should help you out.
This site has been extensively researched by Thai archaeologists and the University of Pennsylvania. It was originally a joint program with the U of Penn and the Thai Department of Fine Arts and also provided basis for training Thai students in archeology. The story of its initial discovery is pretty remarkable. It seems an archeologist from Penn was in the area looking for signs of pre-history. In a visit to the local temple to talk with elders – he was looking to see if verbal history/stories of early civilization were evident, he made a remarkable find. So the story goes!
In walking around under a large tree (it still stands outside the excavation) he kept stumbling on what he thought were roots of the tree. Upon further examination he discerned they were round protrusions in the ground. They made almost perfect circles. With a couple of rough brushes with his boot it became apparent that these items were man-made.
The first pottery from up to 5500 to 6500 years ago had been found!
What separates this site from the many in Thailand? It is the first evidence of organized farming in the civilized world. (There is another site in China that makes the same claim and evidently is roughly the same age – the professionals can figure it out at some point as to who is first.) This is truly an amazing find if it turns out that it is the very first site where agriculture was practiced on a somewhat large scale.
There is also evidence of the first known tool making in Asia.
Rice was grown, harvested, stored and used in a continuous fashion for a number of years. Other nomadic tribes had grown rice but since they were nomadic it is not considered part of the establishment of agriculture. Ban Chiang then is the first case of crops being grown for a purpose on a continuing basis.
(There are over 100 sites in Thailand that show excellent examples of Bronze Age and Iron Age artifacts. If you would like more information a great book is Early Cultures of Mainland Southeast Asia by Charles Higham. Lots of photos and illustrations, an excellent resource for amateurs.)
Although there is not much to see at the actual dig there are interesting things to observe. It is obvious, although not necessarily so in the photos, that there are specific delineations and demarcations in the ground that mark different periods in time. One of the more interesting things to me was that I was looking at dirt, rocks, and twigs deposited some 5000 or more years ago. Talk about making one feel small and insignificant.
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When people died it was the custom to bury their most prized possessions with them. Pots which were used for storage and cooking, jewelry (necklaces and bracelets) and their tools. In the case of these folks the most prized tool was their rollers, the implement used to embed their designs onto the pottery.
In the photos above you can see the remains of two individuals and the pieces and parts that were found in the immediate area of the body. The number of necklaces that adorn the corpse was an indication of their standing within the community. This village was there for centuries and as such the burial grounds were layered with remains. Once generation being buried on top of another.
I took several pictures of the pits but due to lighting they are somewhat lacking, but will post them anyway.
Most people relate Ban Chiang to its wonderful pottery. Basically a rose on cream painting style that to this day is admired by anyone who sees it. Ban Chiang pottery is in high demand on the world’s art market (black market that is, since it cannot be removed from Thailand). Some pieces have made their way into some of the best museums in the world. Some remain in private hands here in Thailand even though the government would like to gather it all back.
There is a small museum that is located some distance from the wat and the actual dig. The locals will point you in the right direction. As I recall its out on the edge of town. This is one of the finest museums I've visited in Asia. Superbly organized and maintained, you can tell its a work of love by someone. I just hope its standards are maintained for years.
I broke the rules, my bad, but just had to have a few pix of some of the beauty on display there, just for memories' sake.
This is a shot of one of the early period pots. As you can see they didn't survive intact in most cases. In fact it was part of the burial ritual to break them so that no other being could put them to use in the afterlife. Very few were recovered in their original state. Only a few that held cherished belongings of the deceased. Those were quickly on their way to major collectors.
Another early example. These photos were taken through the glass cases so there is some obvious reflections. Hell I wasn't even supposed to shoot in the first place.
Another pot from a middle period I believe, only 3000 years old.
This photo shows a the variety of pots and ceramics found. There are also bracelets and necklaces shown and I think one of the rollers. Each individual had their own roller, a cylindrical piece of bone or stone that was used to define their art.
As you can see from these shots the art from 5000+ years ago is truly remarkable.
So, there you have it, a day-trip back to 4000 - 5500 BC. Well worth the effort if your in the Udon area. The museum is very small, basically the size of a decent residential house, but alone, that is worth the day's trip. I hope you check it out.
E. G.














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