So we finally reach the top and I snap a few pictures. There are two ways you can descend from Wat Ek Phnom. You can turn around and retrace your steps. Or you can go down a narrow row of steps that will take you half way down in about ten minutes. By now, May’s white pants were covered in dirt, she was sweating profusely, and her mascara was mess. In a way, she looked like a circus performer that hit skid row. Considering my limited Thai vocabulary, I would have told her, “You same clown, make no money. Dirty! Haha!” For some reason, I did not think she would appreciate my observational humor. A warning to those taking the shortcut. The steps are extremely narrow and there is no railing. If you are drunk or very stoned, go very slowly or you could tumble down to the delight of your Khmer hosts.
After about fifteen minutes, we finally reach the base of the mountain. May is happy. She tells me she can't wait to go back to the hotel and take a nice shower and sleep. Due to my instinct for self-preservation, I waited till after we went down the narrow stairs to explain we have one more stop, Wat Phnom Banan.
While she still looks on in shock, I quickly hop on the back of my moto-ops cycle and head off. She has no choice but to follow. We take another ride on the dirt trail “highway” briefly before passing through some more villages with dried out rice paddies. On our way to Wat Phnom Banan, we pass by three wedding receptions. Some of the younger kids waved as I snapped a few pics on the back of the motorcycle. Because the country is still in such disarray, it was nice to see some hope for the future.
We arrive at Wat Phnom Banan and a couple of kids are scurrying to our bikes. “You want guide! You want guide! One dollar!” the kids scream. With our new posse in place, we start walking towards the Wat. From the bottom, you can clearly see how many steps it takes to make it to the top (similar to an Aztec Temple). May crosses her arms and looks like she is ready to pout. Seeing this, I tell to wait at the bottom. I’ll be back in thirty minutes. Before she gets a word out, I start walking up the stairs without looking back.
I am about a quarter of the way up and wondering where my posse of kids went to. I look back and see the most amazing site. May is actually walking up the stairs! Even though they would probably rob me blind with no remorse, kids are still kids anywhere. They forgot about trying to hustle me for money and instead entertained themselves watching May struggle. To her credit, she made it to the first landing before giving up. The kids join her in the shade while I continue to the top.
Wat Phnom Banan is one of the oldest temples in Cambodia dating back to the 10th century. In other words, before Angkor. Unfortunately, you can never escape the reality of modern Cambodia. Looters had defaced or stolen most of the elaborate carvings and fighting during the Khmer Rouge era caused parts of the temple to be missing. I am disheartened to see a unique, natural treasure in such disrepair. It drives me crazy sometimes. You see these remnants of an advanced, superior civilization. But when you take your eyes of the temples, you realize you are surrounded by shit. This is probably why Cambodia is such a mind fuck.
I snap a few pics and head down to the landing where May is. I joke around with the kids a bit, saying, “Where you from? You are from France? Germany? No? Cambodia! Really!” One kid, with the utmost seriousness, assures me he is not a 25, but is only 6 years old. We share my water bottle before heading back down. When I get to the bottom, Chano tells me that there is one more stop. An old railroad track with a hand propelled cart. Before May dies of exhaustion, I decide to skip this part of the itinerary and head back to the hotel.
Next part, The Ghost of Ganja Past…
Wat Phnom Banan