We finally arrive at the base of the hill near Wat Ek Phnom. The g/f does not look amused. As I predicted, her pants are covered in dust and she is trying desperately to wash off her make-up. I brought some tissues along and she is off to the bathroom. I buy the tickets while she is off cleaning up. $2 per person, including Wat Phnom Banan. She comes back and asks me where the wat is. I point up to a Buddha statue on the top of the mountain. She cranes her neck up and then looks at me like I am madman. Before she can change her mind, I grab her arm and we start climbing the first flight of stairs.
If you go to Wat Ek Phnom or Wat Phnom Banan, you will have a few kids follow you around. Don't be too concerned. Their parents are hawking drinks, snacks, and souvenirs along the pathway. The kids just seem bored and want to watch these strange foreigners bumble around. And we did not disappoint. I think they were so entertained by my g/f that they forgot to ask for a $1 after following us around for an hour. Despite their lithe physiques, most Thais avoid any type of physical exertion. My g/f was no exception. After every few steps, she would stop to catch her breath and wipe the sweat off her face. At first, I thought she was just exaggerating to garner some sympathy, but she was really exhausted. And we had only been climbing the stairs for about ten minutes. Fokin' hell, this is going to be a long day. Some Khmer girls on their way down saw my g/f and started babbling in Khmer. I told them she was Thai. So they stopped talking and just pointed at the top of the hill, a good thirty minutes up, and started laughing. Needless to say, my g/f did not need me to ask for a translation.
I slow down the pace significantly, but the kids and I are still walking ahead of her. Whenever we stop in a shaded area, I practiced my Khmer with them. Most of it is similar to Thai, except for "How are you?" Sounds like "neck so sabai chi teeruu.." Whatever I said, it had the kids in stitches. I was probably telling them to eat day old goat shit or something. So she finally arrives and we all sit down on a few benches. She takes out her mobile and starts dialing. I am confused. Who does she know in Cambodia? When I see her dial the number again, I realize she is trying to dial Thailand. I am about to completely take the piss, but then I have an epiphany. I have been acting like a selfish prick this whole trip.
To recap, she had to take a ride on one of the worst roads in Asia. Then she stayed in a town where she could not communicate with anyone. The only people who acknowledged her were Khmer men leering at her. And every meal we had was inedible. Now I am having her climb stairs with the sun at its peak. Even though she is sweaty and dirty, she is still trying her best. So instead of mocking her, I tell her I understand that she does not like doing these types of things. But I appreciate her effort and she must really like me to be here. She smiles and says that she can't believe what she has to go through to be with me. And after that, she stopped complaining about the heat, food, etc. I wonder what wine goes good with crow.
Before we reach the top, a nun with a makeshift shrine tells us to stop and kneel before her. She starts chanting what I hope is a blessing. She then takes my g/f's hand and starts talking Khmer. After a while she stops and I place a 1,000 riel note in her alms bowl. I wisely decide not to practice my Khmer with her. I already have enough bad karma. Telling a nun to eat day old goat shit won't do me any favors.
A macabre attraction at Wat Ek Phnom is an alcove where the Khmer Rouge would throw enemies of the state to their deaths. Nowadays, the alcove is home to a few Buddha statues, monks talking to the lay people, and a family of monkeys. There also is a small cave where the Khmer Rouge would torture and kill victims. I don't believe in ghosts, spirits, or any other nonsense, but the place did give me the chills. 27 years ago, innocent people were being tortured at the very spot I was standing. And to the Khmers in their mid 30s/40s listening to the monk talk, they probably knew those people. I place a generous donation in the monk's alms bowl before I climb the stairs out of the alcove.
So we finally reach the top and I snap a few pictures. May is happy. She tells me she can't wait to go back to the hotel and take a nice shower and sleep. I decide to wait till we reach the bottom to tell her we have one more stop, Wat Phnom Banan...
Wat Ek Phnom
At the base of the hill
Making a Thai exercise.
Talking with a nun