By one can of this glue from Home Pro
Applied DB // Products - Adhesive, Sealant, DIY (SPARKO ®)
Couldn't get it to show a picture. It comes with a professional dauber which is of poly/cotton material in a nice ball shape on the end of a piece of wire fastened to the can lid, once you run out of this glue if you find it too expensive (which it really isn't given it's much better quality)refill with the other glue as long as you don't let the glue dry out it'll last for years and you get nice smooth coverage every time.. A cheap hair bristled paint brush works well too most others don't have enough give in the bristle to coat evenly and sufficiently, and certain plastics bristles obviously melt in the glue becoming hard and matted. The primary problem with a paint brush is it's one use only, the bonus about the other is it is closed tightly in the can for future use.
I don't have any qualms about using too much glue either if it's being hidden under some fascia for example as glue is far cheaper and less work than redoing a leaking fitting or tearing out new tile jobs for the sake of a few bahts worth of glue, glue is always cheaper than PVC too...
Plus apply enough glue so that it doesn't become too tacky before joining as it acts as a lubricant and slides in easier and more complete for the best seal, incomplete joining almost always leaks if not immediately, eventually.. Even if the pipe will be showing it's all about technique as if you use plenty of glue and then after joining hold the pipe so that the overage drips off until it gets tacky instead of running down where/when ever possible you get a nice clean bead around the joint and not all over the pipe or fittings.
If you buy 2 cans you fill the second one with the PVC cleaner AKA pipe primer you should be using before you glue to prime the pipe properly as all PVC pipe has a silicone residue (especially fittings) on them which is used as a release agent from the molds and it prevents a strong bond between pipes and fittings that's why some rough them up but really it should be cleaned thoroughly with acetone PVC cleaner, hence the reason there is so many leaks here in Thailand (no one does)..Sanding to rough up is a serious pain in the ass especially if you have a fairly large job, but using nothing it is certain you'll eventually be tearing out that nice tile job in time..
In the case of the threaded fittings the steel ones being mistaken for lead are actually galvanized and rust like crap as it's poor quality galvanizing, the other plastic hybrids are brass not copper and the reason none of them fit properly is that the Thais haven't figured out that they need to taper the threads on their fittings yet or haven't yet learned how to do that with plastics or most plumbing metals..
The over use of PTFE tape is also a major cause for future fractures and cracked fittings as putting 10 or so wrappings just serves to expand the pipe fitting and put pressure on the joint which eventually WILL split. Anyone who has repaired one will have noticed this and asked themselves why or cursed the PVC quality.. This is also a problem with using galvanized nipples into plastic fittings as eventually the galvanized nipple will rust and swell splitting the PVC fitting, another major source for pipe leaks in Thailand and why the have those hybrid fittings in the first place..
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...d_sealants.htm
Again couldn't copy just the picture but any one of the above is what you should be using, preferably the white Teflon sealer but currently that isn't available here in Thailand though the black is but should not be used with ABS plastics as it has a chemical reaction which causes the ABS to crack eventually. Since Home Pro and other local shops too carry the Permatex black if enough people were to request the white they could easily add it to their inventory as they already carry an entire Permatex line.
To apply properly you first apply a nice bead of sealer around the threads and then though it will want to slip you then apply the T tape around holding the loose end with one finger while wrapping it, at first it's a bit tricky, like sex, practice makes perfect, for some anyway. Make sure you hold the fitting in your left hand as that way you are guaranteed of wrapping in the proper direction so that when you screw the pipe in the joint you don't unwrap the T tape. You only need to wrap about 3 to 4 times this way..And to avoid going off the edge like the picture and blocking flow just begin back a few threads no need to cover them all the first ones are in the deepest anyway..
Then when you screw it in initially this compound will be tacky but eventually it will dry almost hard but it remains pliable even when dry and the beauty is that it will hold well allowing for pipe vibration and expansion from cooling and heating without damaging the seal which is what happens to most and why fittings should be tapered in the first place.
As well the compound will act as a lubricant allowing you to screw it in much easier and without forcing anything, use no tools only your hand and try not to bottom out the fitting try to stop in the right position before you get all the way in if it needs to be positioned a certain way..
Anyway, for most common PVC plumbing here the black is more than suitable and readily available. By applying the T tape over the compound you get a double seal and the T tape squeezes the compound in the threads for effective coverage and makes it a nice neat job without oozing too much on your hands or on the surrounding pipe joints, that brings up another point while you're applying the T tape pull it up tight and slowly, but not too tight to rip it but just enough to make sure it isn't a sloppy wrap the compund will help in pulling it up tight..
PVC cleaner is available here from the same Thai brand as mentioned above as well..